North Cascades National Park- Hiking Challenge of My Life

August 13, 2025

July 2025

Would you like to know my latest, top-secret, national park tip? Something besides food, water, sunscreen, socks, shoes, and hats?

Today’s tip is about the mental game of the hike. Mental fortitude is essential – especially for us weekend warriors who aim for trails that are physically challenging (and perhaps a tad unwise). My advice? Choose your pre-game travel reading material with care.

On my recent trip to North Cascades National Park, I anticipated a long travel day to Seattle. I wasn’t in the mood for a movie (Delta’s in-flight options have been underwhelming lately, and unlike you young people, I wasn’t about to download something or bring a laptop). Instead, I grabbed the book on my nightstand—my neglected book club pick—and spent the next several hours immersed in the world of Olympic ice dancing.

One of the fascinating parts of the book was getting into the mind of an Olympic athlete. The mental focus. The ability to push through physical and emotional pain. The unwavering commitment. The sacrifices. My takeaway? It’s not comfortable becoming a gold medalist.

For better or worse, I will never experience the true requirements of Olympic competition, but during this trip, I came closer than I expected.

First Impressions of the Park

North Cascades National Park is spectacular. It offers both epic hikes and jaw-dropping beauty that’s easy to access—easy in terms of physical effort, at least. The park is massive, so traveling between gems takes time, but it’s mostly by car. Competing with close-by Olympic National Park and Mount Ranier National Park, it is equally as impressive and magnificent.

The main park road, North Cascades Highway, offers scenic pull-offs and vistas worth every stop. After landing in Seattle, we drove to the western entrance, winding our way along the highway. We stopped often, snapping pictures that—like all great park photos—could never truly capture the awe of being there.

Diablo Lake in North Cascades National Park, Washington. — Diablo Lake with its distinctive turquoise color and surrounded by steep, tree-covered slopes. The small island is Hidden Cove Island.

Trail of the Cedars Newhalem
North Cascades National Park — The Trail of the Cedars is a short loop trail near Newhalem featuring old-growth Western red cedars along the Skagit River.

Liberty Bell Mountain
North Cascades National Park — Liberty Bell Mountain

We spent the first two nights in the adorable town of Winthrop.

River Run Inn & Cabins was the perfect lodging. Highly recommend.

Dinner at Schoolhouse Brewery was lovely . Sit outside by the river.

Another great dining option in Winthrop.

Pre-Gaming in Stehekin

The next day, we ventured to Stehekin, a remote place accessible only by boat, plane, or foot. Getting there meant a scenic drive to Lake Chelan and a ferry ride so beautiful it felt like part of the adventure.

Lake Chelan
Stehekin
North Cascades National Park — A boat on Lake Chelan

Lake Chelan Boat Company
Lady Liberty — We chose the Lady Liberty from Lake Chelan Boat Company. The quick ride is an hour and a half each way.

Once in Stehekin, we rented e-bikes and wandered from one fairy-tale spot to another: a garden bursting with blooms, a charming bakery, old schoolhouses, and a misty waterfall. Lovely. Serene.

Ebikes
Stehekin
North Cascades National Park

The Garden, Stehekin, North Cascades National Park

Stehekin Pastry Company
Stehekin
North Cascades National Park — THE BEST !

Rainbow Falls
Stehekin
North Cascades National Park — Rainbow Falls

Game Day: Cascade Pass & Sahale Arm

Day three was game day—the hike that tied everything back to my “Olympic” mindset.

On paper:

4,000 feet of elevation gain
12 miles round trip
About 8 hours

Like true Olympians, Allene and I were intimidated but not deterred. We had food, water, hats, poles, the right shoes, and even a few hours of stair-master training under our belts.

Reality check: it was hard. Because we couldn’t park near the trailhead, we added another 0.7 miles (yes, we counted) before even starting the real hike. The “8-hour” hike became 9 hours of relentless challenge—followed by two weeks of sore muscles, swollen knees, and a visit to the orthopedist.

One More Step

It may sound miserable, and parts were, but it was one of my favorite hikes ever. The scenery was like nothing I’ve seen – and I’ve seen some beautiful places. ESPN highlights would include:

The mountain goat that literally herded us up part of the trail before rejoining its herd.

Fluffy marmots that posed for photos, grinning as if to cheer us on.

Wildflowers carpeting the mountain slopes in every color imaginable.

Snow-capped peaks towering around us, ancient and vast.

Misty morning clouds lifting to reveal sapphire skies and glittering lakes.

Hikers giving words of encouragement and entertaining stories, helping to ease the burden with distraction.

At every hard moment—when the summit felt impossibly far, when knees and calves ached, when hunger made us dream of leftover pizza in the car—it came down to one more step.

Step by step, we reached the top. My “medal” was a swollen knee that still hasn’t forgiven me, but the reward was far greater: the quiet triumph of doing something you weren’t sure you could do. Something slightly beyond your physical and mental limits. It may be the closest moment to an Olympian I will ever have.

Closing Ceremonies

So yes—pack your sunscreen, hat, food, and poles. But also take time to pick a story, book, or inspiration that will strengthen your mental game. It just might be the thing that helps you take that one more step.

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Haleakalā National Park Sunrise: What to Know Before You Go

June 20, 2025

National Park #22/63

Sunrise at Haleakalā National Park is many things. It’s iconic. It’s mystical. It’s a bucket-list moment.
And it’s cold.
SO. VERY. COLD.

My poor planning for our sunrise visit led to a sub-optimal experience—but yours can be better. Here are my top tips to help you have a spectacular start to your perfect day.

Tip #1 – Bring the Puffer

Planning this once-in-a-lifetime moment requires wearing the appropriate attire. THIS IS NO JOKE. You’ll be 9,000–10,000 feet above sea level—think alpine conditions, not tropical paradise.

I thought it would be a waste of luggage space to pack a winter coat for Hawai‘i. I was wrong. The prepared visitors came wrapped in puffer jackets, ski hats, gloves, and flannel blankets. They looked happy and warm while I froze.

Haleakalā National Park Sunrise — Puffers and hats are the appropriate sunrise attire at Haleakalā National Park

Not dressing for the weather truly impacted my experience. Be prepared! (We did discover the visitor center sells blankets—had I known earlier, I’d have gladly paid a premium for warmth.)

Me…NOT wearing puffer jacket and hat…freezing.

Tip #2 – Your “Early” Is Not Early Enough

Sean and I are punctual people. Or so I thought. Prior to our trip, (exactly 60 days in advance – as recommended), we secured our sunrise permit from the park service. Then, the morning of our visit, we left our hotel between 4:00–4:15 a.m. We arrived at the summit about 10 minutes before sunrise—and we were late!

We hadn’t anticipated the crowd already gathered—bundled in blankets, sipping hot coffee, settled into the best viewing spots. I recommend arriving at least 30–45 minutes before sunrise. Your permit allows park entry from 3 a.m. to 7 a.m., and you’ll want to aim for the earlier side of that window.

Haleakalā Observatory at capacity well before sunrise

There’s something communal and spiritual about waiting in hushed silence with others, watching the colors in the sky shift, appreciating the first light, vigilantly anticipating the actual sunrise. It’s a sacred, shared experience—one that honors the summit, the rising sun, and the Hawaiian culture. You will want the full experience, so get there EARLY!!!!

(Pro tip: There are organized tours that will pick you up from your hotel, provide warm jackets, and even include breakfast afterward. Might be worth considering.)

Tip #3 – Haleakalā Is Worth Visiting Anytime

If the idea of waking at 3 a.m. and shivering at 10,000 feet doesn’t sound ideal, don’t worry. You can still experience the majesty of Haleakalā at sunset or even midday. I read this tip elsewhere and ignored it—but now I pass it on to you with new appreciation.

The summit is worth seeing any time of day. The drive alone is thrilling. If you’re hiking, particularly the Sliding Sands Trail, you might be better off arriving after breakfast, well-rested, and properly hydrated.

We had considered hiking Sliding Sands, but after sunrise I was so cold I could only think about hot coffee and the warmth of the car heater. We managed the short walk to the observatory and a quick hike along the Pa Ka‘oao Trail before driving back down the switchbacks of Haleakala Highway – also known as Crater Road.

Pa Ka‘oao Trail
Haleakala National Park — View of cinder cones from Pa Ka‘oao Trail

View from Pa Ka‘oao Trail with
West Maui in the forefront and the Big Island off in the distance

Tip #4 – Yes, There’s an App for That

While I love unplugging in the parks, some digital tools enhance the experience. The National Park Service app is a great resource, and we’re big fans of GuideAlong, which offers audio tours with history, geology, and fun facts as you drive.

Tip #5 – Learn the Legend

If you read my blog about Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, you know I love a good legend—and Haleakalā has a great one. According to Hawaiian mythology, the demigod Māui stood on the summit and lassoed the sun god, Lā, forcing him to slow down and make the days longer. You can read about the legend before you go, or during your drive with one of the great apps.

The park signs depicts Maui with his lassos tied around the sun.

Tip #6 – Perfect Doesn’t Have to Be Perfect

I spend a lot of time fretting before, during, and after our national park visits. There’s never enough time to hike every trail, dine at every local spot, or catch every vista in the perfect light. Plans fail. Weather is unpredictable. And sometimes, you’re just cold.

But even in the imperfection, there’s always a perfect moment.
Teeth chattering, huddled beside Sean, watching the sun rise over the clouds at the House of the Sun… it was perfect.

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Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park: Forged by Fire and Legend

June 18, 2025

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park marks the 21st stop on my quest to visit all 63 national parks. That means I’m officially one-third of the way through—and somehow, the goal feels more daunting than ever. Still, with each park I visit, something new lingers with me. A single hike. A historic lodge. A special moment. A central character. At Dry Tortugas, it was the shadowy character of Dr. Samuel Mudd. In Everglades National Park, it was the Python Bounty Hunters. And here, on the Big Island of Hawai’i, it’s the goddess Pele—unapologetic, explosive, and unforgettable – who captured my attention and ignited a fire of curiosity and awe.

The Science of the Islands

When visiting Hawai’i, it’s hard not to wonder how these islands came to exist. Spend even a short time there, and you’ll hear origin stories that speak to both sides of your brain—science and spirit.

The Hawaiian Islands are the product of volcanoes—fifteen in total, six of which remain active. Let’s pause to appreciate the marvel of walking around in paradise – on top of active volcanoes….mind-blowing.

Hike through a cave formed by lava at Nāhuku Lava Tube

Unlike most volcanoes that formed at tectonic plate boundaries, Hawai’i’s volcanoes formed in the middle of the Pacific Plate, a process known as the hot spot theory. As the Pacific Plate SLOWLY drifts northwest at a rate of about 5–10 cm per year, it passes over a stationary hot spot—an area of intense heat rising from deep within the Earth’s mantle. This heat melts the rocky crust above it, and the resulting magma pushes through cracks in the Earth’s surface as lava.

That lava cools and hardens on the ocean floor. Over time, layers of lava build upon one another, eventually forming islands. Because of constant movement of the Pacific Plate, the oldest island is Kaua’i. The youngest island, and still growing, is the Big Island, home to Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, two of the world’s most active volcanoes and Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. Kīlauea alone has added hundreds of acres of land to the island in recent decades.

The Legend of Pele

The other origin story, the one I find more entertaining, is less scientific. But let’s be honest…science isn’t exactly trending these days, is it?

According to Hawaiian mythology, the islands were created by the goddess Pelehonuamea, or Pele—“she who shapes the sacred land.” She is the goddess of fire, lightning, wind, dance, and volcanoes.

There are many versions of her story that differ in details, but they often agree on her family: her mother, Haumea (Earth goddess); her father, the Sky Father; five sisters; and seven brothers. Most accounts place her birth in Kahiki (Tahiti) and describe her as powerful, passionate, temperamental, unpredictable—and locked in a fierce sibling rivalry with her sister Namakaokaha’i, the sea goddess.

My favorite version is told on the National Park Service website. In this tale, Pele’s uncle gives her a magical digging stick. While using it, she accidentally scorches her family’s sacred lands. Fleeing their wrath, she escapes in a canoe, pursued by Namakaokaha’i.

She lands first on Kaua’i and tries to create a pit to call home, but her sister floods it. Pele flees to O’ahu, where the same thing happens. Then to Maui—same story. Finally, on Hawai’i Island (although some place this battle on Maui), the sisters battle and Namakaokaha’i kills Pele’s. After her death, however, Pele’s spirit uses the digging stick one last time to form the Halemaʻumaʻu crater at Kīlauea’s summit where she dwells to this day.

Halema'uma'u crater
Kīlauea
Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park — Halema’uma’u crater at Kīlauea, home of the goddess, Pele

Pele Today

Pele is very much alive today. Hike the trails in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park and you’ll see signs of her—literally. Pele’s tears, small black glass droplets, and Pele’s hair, fine threads of volcanic glass, are scattered along trails as constant reminders of her presence. Some locals claim she still appears in human form—often as a woman in white, sometimes with a white dog by her side. If you spot that dog, consider it a warning: legend says eruptions often follow.

Pele's Tear
Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park — Pele’s Tear

Strands of Pele's Hair
Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park — Strands of Pele’s Hair

Pele’s Curses

Due to Pele’s wrathful nature, there are a few tips … or warnings… to heed in order to avoid her curses.

Don’t take lava rocks from the park. Legend says Pele curses those who take rocks from her sacred land. Every year, the park and local post offices receive packages from tourists desperate to reverse the bad luck they encounter after their heists.

Don’t pick the Lehua flower from the Ohi’a tree.

The Ohi’a Lehua tree is the most common native tree in Hawai’i. Legend has it that Pele once met a warrior named Ohi’a and wanted to marry him, but Ohi’a was engaged to a woman named Lehua and he refused Pele’s offer. The refusal angered Pele, and so she turned Ohi’a into a tree. Lehua was devastated. The other gods took pity on her and turned her into the flower that blooms on the tree so they could be together forever. Picking the flower separates the lovers and the result will be rain… or tears from Lehua.

Come Play with Pele

I was captivated by Hawai’i—its science, its legends, its scenery, and its culture . Maybe I see a little of Pele in myself. Or maybe I see her in my daughter, whose fiery spirit is both beautiful and unpredictable. More likely, we all carry a bit of that fire inside us.

Whatever the case, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park – a place where destruction and creation coexist and where myths take form in the steam – is absolutely worth visiting.

Have lunch at Volcano House while you marvel at Halema’umaʻu crater at the summit of Kīlauea

Drive to Hōlei Sea Arch at the end of Chain of Craters road

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Dry Tortugas National Park – Swimming in The Muddy Waters

June 13, 2025

Starting on Dry Land

Getting to Dry Tortugas National Park is an adventure all on its own. The journey begins in Key West, and I highly recommend spending some time on this quirky, rooster-filled Florida Key. Visit the Truman Little White House or the Hemmingway Home and Museum. Alternatively, play some golf before venturing farther into the clear, turquoise waters of the Gulf. Whatever you choose, don’t skip the Shave Ice and the Key Lime pie!

Braden at the Southernmost Point Buoy before Hurricane Ian in 2022

key west golf — Sean putting on Key West Golf Club, 2022

Shave Ice

Key Lime Pie

Fruity Drinks

Nurse sharks and tarpon

Islamorada

Lazy Days Restaurant, Islamorada

Getting to Dry Tortugas National Park

Dry Tortugas National Park consists of about 100 square miles of ocean and coral reefs, and a cluster of seven small islands. Located 67 miles west of Key West, the park is 99% underwater. There are only two ways to get there: by boat or by sea plane. If going by boat, you can use your personal boat, permitted charter boats, or the Yankee Freedom Ferry.

Dry Tortugas National Park
Yankee Freedom — The Yankee Freedom Ferry

For my first visit, I opted for the Yankee Freedom ferry, mostly for cost reasons. The experience was fantastic. The staff was friendly, attentive, and informative. The weather was perfect and the ride smooth. The ferry ride adds a bit of drama to the whole experience. The slow reveal of Garden Key and Fort Jefferson on the horizon, after two hours on the open ocean, builds the appropriate amount of anticipation and awe.

Ferry ride to Dry Tortugas National Park — The ferry ride with Paige

Fort Jefferson
Dry Tortugas National Park — Fort Jefferson, Dry Tortugas National Park

Sea Plane
Dry Tortugas National Park — Sea Plane, Dry Tortugas

More bonus points for the ferry: the ticket includes a complimentary breakfast, lunch and water. Additional food and beverages are available for purchase. Although you likely won’t need much more, be sure to bring extra water and sunscreen. Early June was already hot!

The Stuff Dreams are Made of

Another perk of the Yankee Freedom trip is the guided tour of Fort Jefferson, which is included in the ticket price. Our guide, Ben, was extremely knowledgable. As we walked amongst the walls of the hand-laid brick fortress, Ben spoke of the history of the Dry Tortugas.

Dry Tortugas National Park — Ben …. NPS guide for the Dry Tortugas

Dry Tortugas has a long and layered history (metaphorically and geologically). From its formation by coral reefs, to its discovery by Ponce de Leon, to the commissioning of Fort Jefferson, to its role as a post-Civil War prison … for two hundred years, this site has been built, abandoned, repurposed, and reimagined. It is now a national park, but echoes of its past are everywhere.

Unfortunately, I followed the captain’s advice and took a Dramamine at the start of the journey. While I escaped sea sickness, I was a bit drowsy during the tour. Days later, bits and pieces of Ben’s commentary returned to me like scenes from a dream, specifically the story of Dr. Samuel Mudd.

Muddling Through “Facts”

Samuel Mudd was the physician who treated John Wilkes Booth’s broken leg as he fled after assassinating President Lincoln. Mudd was convicted of conspiracy and sentenced to life in prison at Fort Jackson. During a yellow fever outbreak on the island, Mudd helped treat victims which later earned him a presidential pardon by President Johnson. After further reading, it appears that Mudd’s tale is “complicated”. Was he a traitor? A scapegoat? A “medical savior”? We will never know the full truth – just fragments, eroded by time, money, power, politics and the human drive for self-preservation. I can’t help but think how much fun a game of “Two Truths and A Lie” would have been during prison orientation back in 1865.

History is rarely straight forward. Truth gets muddy. (Pun very much intended and I thank you for indulging me.) The struggle to seek out and sift through conflicting information is not just a historical problem; it is as relevant now as ever.

I am left with the truth that most of us, like Mudd, live somewhere in the space between hero and villain. The other, and equally profound, take away is to get the yellow fever vaccine if you are traveling to an endemic area!

Go to Dry Tortugas National Park

Go to Dry Tortugas. Take the tour. Climb to the top of the fort walls for a truly spectacular panoramic view. Snorkel in the crystal-clear waters. Stand in the shade of the fort and contemplate for yourself who Dr. Mudd really was. Or… wonder why this is the second national park I’ve visited that once housed a man linked to a presidential assassination. (Hot Springs National Park being a stomping ground for Jack Ruby.) Or … allow your mind to take you to your own Dramaine induced fever dream.

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Shenandoah National Park: A Reunion for the Heart and Soul

April 12, 2025

“All across the nation people are starting out on vacations to be spent in…parks. [In] their tents under the stars, with an open fire to cook by, with the smell of the woods, and the wind in the trees, they will forget the rush and strain of all the other long weeks of the years, and for a short time at least, the days will be good for their hearts and for their souls.”
– President Franklin D. Roosevelt, Shenandoah National Park Dedication at Big Meadows, 1936

Nearly a century later, FDR’s words remain remarkably true. Earlier this month, I was fortunate enough to step away from the busyness of life and, for a short time, nurture both my heart and soul.

The nurturing came not only from the mountains, wildflowers, and winding trails of Shenandoah National Park, but also from the company I kept. For national park visit number 19, I was joined by my cousins—Debbie, Amy, and Amber. Ever generous and good-humored, they indulged my national park obsession by agreeing to meet in Virginia for our long-overdue reunion.

In tents under stars

The weather for our trip was perfect—though not the kind of “perfect” that typically draws visitors to Shenandoah. Instead of crisp autumn days and jeweled foliage, Shenandoah in April offered us something moodier and more contemplative. The mornings were cold, encouraging slow, lazy breakfasts over steaming coffee and slices of Amy’s famous coffee cake.

View from Airbnb in Front Royal, VA about 1.6 miles from the most northern entrance of the park.

Smell of the woods, wind in the trees

The air was damp and misty on our first afternoon in the park. Ice lingered on the rocks and tree branches at Stony Man Summit. Bundled in layers, we were primed for bear spotting (Hey, Bear!), but a ranger informed us that an outbreak of mange had reduced the bear population by almost half. While mange kept the bears away, the cold weather drove other humans indoors. For a little while, it felt like we had the park all to ourselves.

View from Stony Man summit, Shenandoah National Park — View from Stony Man summit

By our second afternoon in Shenandoah National Park, the skies had turned blue. The warmer temperatures attracted more people and the trails, especially Dark Hollow Falls, were noticeably more crowded. In search of quieter paths, we hiked Hawksbill Mountain, which rewarded us with both breathtaking views and the kind of solitude that makes the effort feel so worthwhile.

Dark Hollow Follows
Shenandoah National Park — Amber by Dark Hollow Falls

View from Hawksbill Mountain
Shenandoah National Park — View from Hawksbill Mountain

An open fire to cook by

We also spent some time at the Harry F. Byrd Sr. Visitor Center where we read FDR’s words of dedication which are so relateable. Sure, we swapped tents for an Airbnb and open fires for an oven, but the meals we shared were equally as wholesome. While snacking on Debbie’s homemade humus (pro tip: remove the skins of the chick peas) and sipping on Amber’s expertly selected wines, we made some grape leaves that surely made our Sittu proud.

Between cooking, hiking, a few rounds of Boggle, and deep conversations about everything from life to the intricacies of time travel, we created the perfect recipe for days that truly were good for both heart and soul.

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Death Valley National Park

January 30, 2025

#18 of 63

Death Valley National Park

A Sandbox of Colorful Paradox

I tried, I really did. I planned on writing this entire post about Death Valley National Park without mentioning Star Wars, but in reality, no choice have I.

A week after returning from the largest national park in the contiguous U.S. (larger than Rhode Island plus Delaware), I find myself reflecting on the trip. My thoughts betray me and keep returning to Star Wars. It’s not just about where the films were shot, but rather how both Death Valley and the Stars Wars saga are filled with fascinating contradictions. Much like the blurred lines between good and evil in the films, Death’s Valley’s contradictions are striking – and difficult to fit into a neat little box.

Dry. The Driest. So. DRY.

Let’s start with obvious. Death Valley is the driest place in North America. I’m talking parched. Your skin will agree when I say it’s dry enough to make you wonder if you’ve accidentally stepped into a giant dehydrator. (Pro tip: bring lots of lip balm.)

And yet… not all dry. We stayed at The Inn at Death Valley where the grounds are green and lush. Streams of water and ponds with fountains gurgle and splash. We even spent one afternoon lounging under palm tress, swimming in the spring-fed pool. A part of the Oasis at Death Valley, The Inn offers a striking contrast to its surrounding arid landscape.

Inn at Death Valley — The original inn was built in 1927 by the Pacific Borax Company. Death Valley is known for borax mining in the 1880’s.

**Hot. The hottest. Not Always Hot.**

Death Valley is reportedly the hottest place on Earth, with a recorded air temperature of 134° F. During our visit in January, we wore beanies and gloves in the early morning and evening hours, proving that Death Valley is not always scorching. January is a lovely time to visit.

Sunrise at Zabriskie Point, Death Valley National Park — Chilly morning while watching the sunrise over Zabriskie Point in Death Valley National Park

Low. The Lowest. But wait… a high?

From Dante’s view in Death Valley, you can look out and marvel at Badwater Basin, the lowest place in North America at 282 feet below sea level. And yet, if you raise your gaze to the horizon, you’ll spot a mountain peak in the distance. That mountain is Mount Whitney, the highest point in the lower 48 states. So low… and so high.

Badwater Basin, Dante's View, Death Valley National Park — View of Badwater Basin from Dante’s View with Mt. Whitney in the horizon.

Mt. Whitney,Dante's View, Death Valley National Park — Close up of Mt. Whitney as seen from Dante’s View in Death Valley National Park.

How low can you go? Sean pointing to the *Sea Level* sign in the parking lot of Badwater Basin.

Badwater Basin, Death Valley National Park — “Sea Level” sign at Badwater Basin.

The Star Wars Connection

In preparation for our trip, Sean and I rewatched Star Wars: A New Hope to refresh our memories of the scenes filmed in Death Valley. Even if you are not a Star Wars fan, I highly recommend this assignment. The desert landscapes take on a new significance once you’ve seen them on the screen. I thought of Tatooine on every drive and every hike.

Twenty Mule Team Canyon drive is a MUST. This is a fun, roller-coaster drive that was also the setting for Jabba the Hut’s Palace in Return of the Jedi.

Golden Canyon was another site for Star Wars scenes.

There are several hikes that start at the Golden Canyon entrance.

Golden Canyon Gower Gulch Loop Trail, Death Valley National Park

In 2020, when we were all binge watching something, I watched Star Wars: The Clone Wars. Anakin Skywalker quickly became a favorite character. Even though you know where Anakin’s journey ends, it’s hard not to like and admire him. The duality of Anakin is part of his appeal. The Star Wars saga is a story of contradictions, as is the story of Death Valley. It’s a place of extremes: stark and brutal, yet breathtakingly beautiful.

Devil's Golf Course, Death Valley National Park — Devil’s Golf Course

A Landscape of Contradictions

One of the greatest contradictions of Death Valley is its appearance. The badlands and canyons here are some of the oldest formations in the world, millions of year old – yet walking across them, you feel like you’ve landed on another planet. In fact, NASA uses Death Valley as a stand-in for Mars when testing equipment for future planetary exploration. When you look up at the Death Valley night sky, you are reminded of these same planets awaiting exploration. Death Valley is an International Dark Sky park, meaning the stargazing is spectacular. During a ranger-led night sky program, we experienced a kind of darkness you rarely see. The beauty of the field of stars on a bed of black sky was indescribable. All my thoughts went to distant galaxies, space stations, and possibility of life beyond Earth.

Perspective: Shades of Brown

When you first arrive in Death Valley, one word might come to mind: brown. Once you start exploring, however, you realize the colors here are more than a typical desert palette. The colors of Death Valley transform in the light of sunrise and sunset, shifting through shades of creamy beige, rusty red, mustard yellow and deep brown. There are even splashes of pink, purple and blue. The brown becomes rich, layered, and alive.

Good versus evil. Jedi versus Sith. Light side versus dark side. Desert brown versus spectacular brown. It’s all about perspective.

Artist's Palette, Death Valley National Park — The colors of Artist’s Palette

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Death Valley: A Place of Paradoxes

In the end, Death Valley is not easy to define. It’s a place of unique, enigmatic contradictions. It is a desolate, quiet place, but like Anakin Skywalker, ” the Force is strong with this one”. Come see for yourself.

Photo Dump

Ubehebe Crater Death Valley National Park — Ubehebe Crater

Little Hebe Crater Death Valley National Park — Little Hebe Crater

Natural Bridge, Death Valley National Park — Natural Bridge

Wagons at Harmony Borax Works, Death Valley National Park — Wagons at Harmony Borax Works

Mesquite Sand Dunes, Death Valley National Park — Sitting on a Mesquite Tree at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Death Valley National Park — Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

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The Wonderful World of Glacier National Park

October 29, 2024

September 2024

Chapter 1: My Oz Story

Big and beautiful. Crown of the continent. Emerald City of Oz.

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

The Wizard of Oz is a beloved story with many iterations, and I’d like to offer one more.

This Wizard of Oz chronicle begins with a middle-aged woman, DarThia, who lives in a hot, humid suburb of Atlanta, Georgia. DarThia leads an ordinary life, but longs for moments when she escapes to other parts of the country where nature is preserved, and the surroundings are inspiring to her heart and healing to her soul.

During the prequel to this story, DarThia met some interesting characters. Long ago, she met a scarecrow who thought he needed a brain but was the smartest person DarThia had ever met. So, she married him.

Sometime later, DarThia met a lioness who thought she was cowardly because she was afraid of heights, but was the bravest person DarThia had ever met. So, she made her a friend.

Lioness was married to Tin Man who had the biggest heart of anyone DarThia had ever met, so she made him a friend, too.

DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness, and Tin Man have had many adventures, but the one I’d like to tell you about today is their trip to Glacier National Park, or as they called it – Oz.

Chapter 2: We’re not in Atlanta Anymore!

Glacier National Park is located in northwest Montana, adjacent to Canada, and getting there can be difficult. There are several options, although arrival by cyclone is not the preferred method. Our quartet of travelers chose a Delta flight from Atlanta to Bozeman, Montana.

~~The Yellow Brick Road~~ “Going to The Sun Road” is the main road in Glacier National Park, running East to West. The group of travelers started on the east side of the park and slowly worked westward. They did consider a direct flight to Kalispel, Montana, but the long drives from Bozeman and Missoula provided the necessary scenery and time for an epic playlist, both of which make this story a classic.

Lioness sings “Over the Rainbow” during long drive.

Chapter 3: lions and tigers AND BEARS! Oh my!!

Bear spray … necessity or scam? Close encounters with bears seem to be rare in Glacier National Park. However, Dorothy thought Winged Monkeys were rare in Oz and look what happened to her. Wanting protection against both angry bears and magical monkeys, DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness and Tin Man stopped at the Walmart in Bozeman to purchase bear spray and snacks.

Spoiler alert… the friends did not need to use the bear spray. They did eat quite a lot of snacks, though, and were very glad they stopped in Bozeman for both. Once they left Bozeman, the next opportunity for either was in St. Mary’s, four hours away.

Provisions in hand, the travelers were famished after the long day of travel. Their hunger led them to an adorable restaurant in Bozeman called “Roost Fried Chicken”, recommended by Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. Their meal here was one of their favorites.

CHAPTER 4: Browing, Montana

The journey from Bozeman to Browning consisted of hours of driving with no speed limit through seemingly endless plains scattered with cows. Rarely a human in sight, the skies were overcast while a compilation of Willie Nelson, Zach Bryan, and Tom Petty sang in the background as the travelers cruised through the open and rugged landscape.

The city of Browning is small. Our travelers were unsuccessful in finding a decent dinner that night. They all agreed it would have been better to avoid Taco John all together and stick to Cliff Bars. Although their bellies were not full, the travelers spent a safe night in Glacier Peaks Hotel and were up early the next morning to continue their journey.

Chapter 5: Totos

As the friends departed the next morning, the Totos of Browning came to wish them safe travels.

Chapter 6: Triple Waterfalls

The friends were delighted to finally arrive in Glacier National Park, and eager to journey along “Going to the Sun Road”. Their first stop was to admire Goose Island. Afterwards, they hiked to the triple falls – Barring, St. Mary’s, and Virginia Falls.

After several hours of hiking, the crew stopped in St. Mary’s for a well-deserved lunch at the Snowgoose Grill and filled the Tin Man’s heart with a rice crispy treat.

Glacier National Park is renowned for its huckleberry harvests. The travelers feasted on many huckleberry desserts.

After lunch, they took a stroll around Swiftcurrent Lake via the Swiftcurrent Lake Nature Trail, all the way to Lake Josephine. After their afternoon stroll, they checked into their lodgings at Many Glacier Hotel.

Many Glacier Hotel is often voted one of the most beautiful in the U.S. national parks and DarThia agreed. The hotel has an interesting history and is extremely charming with its Swiss-style chalet decor.

The lobby of Many Glacier Hotel with hanging lanterns

The Swiss-style chalet of Many Glacier Hotel

Chapter 7: Harry the Moose

After admiring the beautiful lodge, the crew decided to make their way to Fishercap Lake via a short, easy trail, known for spotting moose. After a little while, Harry the Moose sauntered from the shrubbery, walked into the lake, and feasted on his grassy dinner. Harry’s hunger was contagious, and the traveler’s soon left to find their own dinners at The Ptarmigan Dining Room in Many Glacier Hotel.

CHAPTER 8: Grinnell Lake

The next day, DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness, and Tin Man awoke early as the sun rose over Swiftcurrent Lake and Grinnell Point.

Arm in arm, merrily singing, they set out on the Tan Dirt Road.

Stunning mountainpeaks, distant waterfalls, dangerous suspension bridges, and miles of leafy vegetation (with hidden bears) flanked their path. The destination – Grinnell Lake. The wind, cold, sleet, and distance prevented them from reaching Grinnell Glacier, so they packed their backpacks full of scrumptious pre-made sandwiches from the coffee shop and picnicked with the chipmunks by the turquoise blue water of Grinnell Lake instead. The way back home along the water was more scenic (and less scary) than the morning path.

Brave Lioness walks over a dangerous suspension bridge.

The group rewarded their herculean efforts that evening with a steak dinner at Cattle Baron Super Club, a local restaurant outside the park with a great story. Tin Man is still waiting for his beer.

Chapter 9: David the Moose

Bellies full, the travelers were heading back to Fishercap Lake to see Harry again, when, to their delight, Tin Man’s eagle eye spotted a mother black bear and her two frolicking cubs.

Elated at seeing bears, the friends thought the night couldn’t get better. But this night did get better! While waiting for Harry (who never showed), David the Moose made a surprise appearance right along the trail where they were standing. One billion photos later, the group meandered back to Many Glacier hotel for a restful sleep.

Chapter 10: Finding the Hidden Lake

The next morning, the foursome were not all merry and bright. The plan for the day was to find the Hidden Lake, which required parking at the Logan Pass visitor center. The evening before, locals at the Cattle Baron recommend the group arrive “before daybreak” in order to secure a parking spot. Excellent advice, but it meant a very early morning without proper caffeine. It also meant that the stairs at the start of the hike were glazed with a thin, but daunting, sheet of fresh ice.

Right when regret started seeping into DarThia’s mind, the magical land of Oz and its wildlife began to wake up. A big furry grizzly bear was spotted in the distance. Not remotely close enough to be a threat, or for DarThia to see very well with the naked eye, DarThia and friends spent about 30 minutes watching this mammoth creature waddle along. Another tip… bring binoculars. We had a pair, and they made all the difference.

After watching A GRIZZLY BEAR enjoy its morning, we met an equally furry, although much smaller, friend, the Hoary marmot.

With a newfound joy for the day, the group made it to the summit with a spectacular view of the Hidden Lake. The photos do not do this justice. It was stunning!

After the favorite hike of the trip, it was back to the car and more driving along “Going to the Sun Road.” They stopped to take pictures at Bird Woman Falls and the West Tunnel.

The friends had lunch at Lake McDonald Lodge and hiked to Avalanche Creek afterwards.

“Stop throttling, stop throttling, stop throttling!!”

That night, they slept at Apgar Village Lodge. DarThia enjoyed all the places they slept, but the view outside the rooms at Apgar made this her favorite hotel of the trip.

View of Lake McDonald at sunrise from room at Apgar Inn

Chapter 11: Scenic Float Trip

Water is everywhere in Glacier National Park and the friends were excited to be able to get on it. They opted for a Scenic Float trip on the Flathead River.

After being on the water all morning, it was time for another meal. Great Bear Cafe in Hungry Horse was recommend by Dirt in My Shoes and was excellent.

After lunch, the friends felt they had one more hike in them. They took the recommendation from Guide Along and hiked to McDonald falls.

Chapter 12: Sleeping amongst the poppies

While not as dangerous at the poppy field, sleeping at Lake McDonald Lodge was equally as enticing. Another historic lodge in the Swiss chalet style, it is warm and cozy with stunning scenery everywhere.

A Red Jammer that offer tours of the park

Chapter 13: There’s No Place Like Home

The last day in Oz, Scarecrow and Tin Man played golf at Whitefish Lake Golf Club while DarThia and Lioness enjoyed the quaintness of downtown Whitefish.

Although desperately trying not to click their hiking boots together, the friends found themselves back to reality after their wonderful time in Glacier National Park. Even though they could not stay in Oz, there is truly no place like home.

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Hot Springs National Park:The Hidden Heat Below the Surface

July 20, 2024

Hot Springs National park

# 16 in my quest to visit all 63 National parks

Hot Summers:

105 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s the typical high temperature in Hot Springs, Arkansas in the summer. I’ve been visiting Lake Hamilton in Hot Springs in July for as long as I can remember, as it is the host city to my annual family reunion. Hence, it is no surprise that my lifetime of memories here take place indoors with air conditioning. The weather has never seemed conducive to exploring the national park down the road. A hot bath, historic or not, is unappealing this time of year. Sweating profusely while walking down Grand Promenade…also unappealing. Even betting on horses at Oaklawn didn’t come close to playing Space Invaders in Big Daddy’s chilly condo with a glass of Aunt Pat’s iced tea.

This summer, however, the weather was spectacular. The high of only 85 degrees allowed for a full day of hiking, bathing, drinking, and touring. It was a jackpot day in Hot Springs National Park.

Hot Water:

Hot water is the modern-day luxury for which I am most grateful. In Hot Springs, Arkansas, however, the hot water isn’t all that modern. In fact, the 142-degree water coming from the ground is 400 years old!

The Ouachita mountains surround Hot Springs National Park and were formed when two tectonic plates collided over 300 million years ago. The process left thousands of layers of cracked, broken rock. Rain falls into these cracks and descends 8,000 feet below the earth’s surface, where the rocks are extremely hot. Through conduction, the hot rocks slowly heat the rainwater. The water travels down for 4,000 years and ascends quickly back to the surface. And by quickly, I mean 400 years. Not very modern at all!

Because the water is heated by this geothermal process and not by volcanic magma like other hot water (i.e. Yellowstone), it is colorless and tasteless. Water from Hot Springs National Park is ideal not only for bathing, but also for drinking. After learning about this phenomenon, I understand why a national park exists here – to protect, celebrate, and enjoy this special water.

Hot Springs National Park, thermal spring fountain — Visitors fill jugs at a thermal spring fountain

Hot Baths:

Hot Springs has had many nicknames over the centuries. One of my favorites, the “American Spa,” was given to the city in the early 1800’s. The spa culture started with log cabin bath houses built in the 1830’s, and eventually evolved into the eight, still standing, bathhouses built by the 1920’s.

The peak time for these bath houses was the late 1940’s. Over the next 40 years, there was a decline in tourism and all but one shut down. The Fordyce Bathhouse is now the national park Visitor Center and offers both self-guided and complimentary ranger-led tours to give you an idea of what the bathhouses were like in their prime. We did a version of the self-guided tour, but I will be sure to join a ranger-led tour on my next trip.

If you are curious about the bathhouses, the Fordyce exhibit is a great place to start, but I highly recommend getting in the water. My cousin, Hillis, and I opted to bathe at the Quapaw Bathhouse – one of the two remaining functioning bathhouses. We spent about an hour and a half enjoying the public thermal pools at Quapaw, although they also offer private baths and traditional spa treatments. If you are looking for a more authentic bathhouse experience, the Buckstaff Bathouse offers various packages, several of which I have added to my To Do List for next visit.

Hot Springs National Park, Quapaw Bathhouse

Shower for pre and post bathing at Quapaw Bathhouse

Showers for pre and post bathing at Quapaw Bathhouse

Lockers to store belongings at Quapaw Bathhouse

Public Pools at Quapaw Bathhouse

Hot Trails:

Hot Springs National Park is not all about the water. Those Ouachita mountains that help make the hot springs also make for some great hikes. When I originally planned this trip, I assumed the temperature would be close to 100 degrees, so I wasn’t planning on hiking. Because the weather was so pleasant, Hillis and I changed our course and were able to get in a short hike. We opted for the Goat Rock Trail, which is one of the North Mountain trails. This trail is a moderate, 2.6-mile, out and back journey that took a little over an hour to complete. The hike is pleasant with plenty of shade and great views at the top. It is true that parking is difficult, but, like the weather, we lucked out and found the last spot in the small lot.

Hot Springs National Park, Goat Rock Trail

Top of Goat Rock Trail

View from top of Goat Rock Trail, Hot Springs National Park

Hot Beer (Cheese Dip):

As I mentioned, only two of the eight bathhouses on Bathhouse Row are still functioning. The Fordyce is the national park Visitor Center. The Hale is a hotel. The Lamar is the park gift store. The Ozark is the Hot Springs National Park Cultural Center. The Maurice is currently vacant. (Any takers?) And the Superior Bathhouse is a brewery. That’s right, A BREWERY – and the only in the world to use thermal spring water in their beer (not to mention the only one inside a national park). How can you not go?

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Surprise surprise, I was most excited for this part of the day. It never ceases to amaze me that our national parks really do have something for everyone. Knowing beer cheese dip was something everyone would enjoy, I recruited some family members to come join us for lunch. The adults shared the Beer Bath – a sampler of all 18 beers on tap with clever names and bold tastes like Big Dill (Pickle Sour), Spicy Ride (Jalapeno Ale), Foul Play (Oatmeal Stout), and DeSoto’s Folly (Golden Stout). It is a must do. The beer paired nicely with my chili-slaw dog. Yum!

Hot Springs National Park, Beer Bath with 18 sample beers at Superior Brewery

Beer Bath at Superior Bathhouse Brewery

Hot Springs National Park, Superior Bathhouse Brewery, Beer Bath

Beer Bath with 18 sample beers

Hot Springs National Park, Superior Bathhouse Brewery

Hillis and Mary at Superior Bathhouse Brewery

Hot Operations:

My very favorite part of this trip to Hot Springs National Park was our visit to The Gangster Museum. I briefly recalled that Hot Springs had a claim to mob fame, but our time in the museum gave a great overview to the whole illegal scene going on in Hot Springs over the decades. At first I thought our tour guide’s gangster outfit and jokes were a little silly, but by the end of the tour I was all in. When we arrived home, I checked out a copy of David Hill’s The Vapors, a book about the mob in Hot Springs. If you want to adequately prepare for your visit to Hot Springs, I suggest you read the book.

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Hot Springs National Park, The Gangster Museum gift shop

The museum gift shop offers hats for sale and a nod to the Hatterie Hotel (and brothel) of the 1930’s.

As Al Capone once said, “You can get much further with a kind word and a beer than you can with a kind word alone.” That’s what it was… right? Whatever the quote, after this visit, I have many a kind word to say about Hot Springs National Park. The day, paired with a pickle beer, was well worth the trip. Even in the heat of a Hot Springs Summer.

Next up… Glacier National Park… Coming September 2024!

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Olympic National Park (# 15/63) – No rain in the rainforest

June 7, 2024

Olympic National Park – Day 1

Sunset over the Olympic Mountain Range
Olympic National Park — Sunset over the Olympic Mountain Range

Home to Vampires:

Diverse Landscapes:

Easy Touring:

The Cullens must have been on vacation. The weather last week in Olympic National Park was so outstanding that had the vampires been in town, it would have felt like touring a jewelry store instead of a rainforest. Even though it would have been extraordinary to meet Edward or Bella, the warm air and sunny sky more than made up for missing them. Olympic National Park is the 15th park in my quest to visit all 63 National Parks in the U.S.

This park is the most diverse I have visited so far on my journey. In three days, we saw the snow-peaked Olympic Mountain range, pristine alpine lakes, two temperate rainforests, and the intimidating Washington coast. Each of these three landscapes has a beauty and magic of its own. As you are walking in the forest or along the coast, it isn’t difficult to believe in vampires, werewolves, and other fictional creatures. If you have more time… a week, a month, a summer… I recommend spending it all in this wonderful place.

For those of you who don’t enjoy day-long hikes– no worries! We had spectacular views with short, easy hikes. There is a lot of driving though, so choose your travel companions wisely. Luckily for me, my brother joined us for this trip. He has lived in Washington for several decades, and thus was the perfect tour guide.

Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

We arrived at the Hurricane Ridge visitor center (which burned down in 2023) at about 10:00 am on a Wednesday. There are many hikes that start here that all sounded fabulous. But because we had a lot of ground to cover in a short time, we opted for the High Ridge Trail. This is a moderate, 1-mile round-trip trail with great views for the effort. You even get to pass the quaint ski patrol cabin and lift. Olympic National Park is one of only three national parks to offer downhill skiing, snowboarding, and snow tubing. (Yosemite and Cuyahoga National Parks being the other two.) There were a few remnant patches of snow on the trail to remind us of how fun -and cold- this park might be in the winter.

Clear view of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge

Clear view of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park

Picture perfect weather on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge

Stunning views of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park

A reminder of winter recreational activities at Hurricaine Ridge in Olympic National Park as see on the High Ridge Trail

Great visibility of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park

View of Lake Crescent from the Lake Crescent Lodge in Olympic National Park

After Hurricane Ridge, we meandered over to Lake Crescent. This glacier-carved lake is simply stunning… and chilling. For those True Crime fans, if you aren’t aware of the story of the Lady of the Lake, you are missing a good one.

Before eating lunch at Lake Crescent lodge, we hiked the Marymere Falls trail. This hike is just under 2 miles, easy, and full of outstanding views.

The light was amazing on the sunny hike of Marymere Falls Trail in

Have to get a sign photo of Lake Cresent

Moss covered tree - Marymere Falls Trail

A bridge over troubled water on Marymere Falls Trail

Trees on Marymere Falls Trail are big enough that you can fit inside them.

The star of the trai - Marymere Falls in Olympic National Park

Enormous moss covered tree on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

Picture perfect scenery on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

Grinch-like moss covered tree on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

A bridge over troubled waters on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

Friendly face in the parking lot of Marymere Falls trailhead in
Olympic National Park

Cute tunnel on Marymere Falls trail in
Olympic National Park

Fun times on Marymere Falls trail in Olympic National Park

Lunch at the Lake Crescent Lodge was delicious. On the drive from Seattle, we passed through the town of Sequim and the Dungeness Spit. The former is known as the “Lavender Capital of North America,” and the latter is associated with the crab. Not having had the time to visit either place, we honored them by ordering the Lavender Lemonade and the Dungeness Crab Louie Salad. We were fortunate to arrive at the lodge just before they stopped serving lunch. We were also fortunate to dine at a window table, from which the views were something out of a Normal Rockwell painting.

View from Lake Crescent Lodge

The quaint Lake Cresent Lodge as you approach from the parking lot.

Lake Crescent Lodge

Sol Duc Valley,

Olympic National Park

After lunch, we hiked to another waterfall, Sol Duc Falls. This trail is another easy, 1.5-mile hike with stunning views and a waterfall. If you are like me, waterfalls alone are worth a hike.

On the drive to the trail head, we passed a great viewing spot over the Sol Duc river where, if you time it right, you can watch the salmon run.

Another activity we had to pass on this trip was a visit to the hot springs in Sol Duc. Since my visit to Hot Springs National Park is just around the corner, we opted to take a rain check on the Sol Duc hot springs.

Not to skip, however, is the Native American legend of the creation of these hot spring.

The Sol Duc Falls trails winds through tall, moss covered trees in Olympic National Park. — Sol Duc Falls Trail

A stream flows through a gathering of moss covered rocks on Sol Duc Falls Trail in Olympic National park — Sol Duc Falls Trail

Forks, Washington

Next on the agenda was to check into our lodging. We stayed in the town of Forks at the Pacific Inn Hotel. The rooms were clean, freshly painted, and well kept. The town itself is very cute and conveniently located for touring the park. For those interested, Forks also houses the infamous Twilight Museum.

Feeling a little Team Edward AND Team Jacob, we picked up a pizza at Pacific Pizza in Forks and then headed to the beaches of La Push, home to the Quileute tribe and the Black family.

The unassuming but comfortable Pacific Inn in Forks, Washington in the
Olympic National Park

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park

The goal was to hike to Hole-in-the-Wall on Rialto Beach, back to the parking lot, and then enjoy our pizza while watching the sunset over the sea stacks. We did, in fact, achieve our goal, but I completely underestimated Rialto Beach and the difficulty I would have getting around.

The beach is rocky with enormous logs of drift wood scattered about, making it quite literally an obstacle course. At one point the path along the beach was interrupted by a stream of water too wide for a human to jump. Being neither werewolf nor vampire, we had two choices: get wet or walk on top of the lattice-work of logs. Adding to my anxiety was the approaching high tide. Not to have my plans thwarted, we made it across the stream, to Hole-in-the-Wall and back to safety in time to enjoy the sunset. Needless to say, I slept well this night!

Rialto Beach

Driftwood Scramble

Hole-in-the-Wall

Sea stacks

Sea Stacks

Sunset on Rialto Beach
Olympic National Park

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Olympic National Park: From Crashing Coasts to Serene Streams

June 6, 2024

Day 2:

Cape Flattery, near Olympic National Park

One of the bazillion problems with having a bucket list item of visiting all 63 national parks by the time I turn 63 years old, is that I don’t get to spend enough time in any one place, an understatement for Olympic National Park. My focus is usually to hit the highlights and move on. Having this mindset, I tend to limit myself and underestimate how much I can see in one visit.

A benefit of having the right travel companions is that they can help you stay positive and spontaneous. I had taken Cape Flattery off our itinerary because I thought we would run out of time. Thankfully, my brother thought that was a terrible excuse and we started the second day of our trip at the most northwestern tip of the lower 48 United States– in Cape Flattery.

The view of the coast as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail

Happy to have made the drive to Cape Flattery

The view of the coast as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail

Cape Flattery is near Neah Bay, actually outside of Olympic National Park, in the Makah Reservation. A permit is required to park by the trailhead. We got ours for twenty dollars at the Makah Marina.

The Cape Flattery Tail is an easy, 1.5-mile trail that is picturesque from beginning to its astounding end, and absolutely worth the trip.

Oversized chair at the trail head of Cape Flattery Trail — One of the several oversized chairs seen on the trip.

Wooden planked walk day on Cape Flattery Trail — Wooden planked pathway of Cape Flattery Trail

Frog on Cape Flattery Trail near Olympic National Park — Friend on the Cape Flattery Trail

Tatoosh Island, Cape Flattery as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail — Tatoosh Island, Cape Flattery, as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail

The Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park

Iconic Photo from Hall of Mosses Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park

Want to feel like you are in a Disney movie? Then visit the Hoh Rain Forest and all its enchantment. The moss-covered rocks, the densely packed trees, the unending ferns, the gentle streams, and the blue Hoh river all work together to create a magical world, fit for all of us princesses. Twelve feet of rainfall per year helps create the lush growth of this temperate rainforest. The other temperate rainforest we visited is the Quinault Rain Forest, which is on the agenda for Day 3 in Olympic National Park.

Tree draped in moss on Hall of Mosses trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Trees draped in moss on Hall of Mosses Trail

Large heart shaped tree root on Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Large heart-shaped tree root on Spruce Nature Trail

Two easy hikes that are worth the effort are the Hall of Mosses Trail and the Spruce Nature Trail.

Serene Stream seen on the Hall of Mosses Trail in the Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Serene Stream, Hall of Mosses Trail, Olympic National Park

Snake in fern on Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Slithery friend on Spruce Nature Trail

The Hoh River at the end of the Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Skaff by the the Hoh River

One of my favorite parts of the Spruce Nature Trail was spending some time by the Hoh River. I could have stayed here all afternoon. The boys had fun walking on logs, while I watched a Bald Eagle fly over head.

Bald Eagle flies over Hoh River at the end of the Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Sean pointing to the Bald Eagle flying over the Hoh River at the end of the Spruce Nature Trail

Ruby Beach, Olympic National Park

Before dinner, we made a stop at Ruby Beach. Another beautiful sight with rocky beaches, large logs, and sea stacks.

Sean scrambling atop large driftwood log over stream on Ruby Beach

The rocky beach and sea stack of Ruby Beach

Dinner at Longhouse Cafe in Forks

If I’m honest, I get as excited about food as I do about nature. The Longhouse Cafe in Forks is just down the road from the Pacific Inn, but tucked away in the parking lot of Dew Drop Hotel, making it a bit difficult to find. We ordered fresh halibut bites, birria fries, and barbecue sandwiches on fry bread. So good!

Freshly caught halibut served at the Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington

Halibut Bites

Longhouse Cafe in Forks

Birria Fries at Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington

Barbecue sandwich on fry bread at Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington

Wildlife Spotting

The last item on our list for Day 2 in Olympic National Park was to see some wildlife. We got lucky and after dinner saw two herds of Roosevelt Elk and one deer. It was an excellent way to end our day, and certainly made our hearts grow fawn’der!

A deer in Olympic National Park

Roosevelt Elk in Olympic National Park

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