Hot Springs National Park:The Hidden Heat Below the Surface

July 20, 2024

Hot Springs National park

# 16 in my quest to visit all 63 National parks

Hot Summers:

105 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s the typical high temperature in Hot Springs, Arkansas in the summer. I’ve been visiting Lake Hamilton in Hot Springs in July for as long as I can remember, as it is the host city to my annual family reunion. Hence, it is no surprise that my lifetime of memories here take place indoors with air conditioning. The weather has never seemed conducive to exploring the national park down the road. A hot bath, historic or not, is unappealing this time of year. Sweating profusely while walking down Grand Promenade…also unappealing. Even betting on horses at Oaklawn didn’t come close to playing Space Invaders in Big Daddy’s chilly condo with a glass of Aunt Pat’s iced tea.

This summer, however, the weather was spectacular. The high of only 85 degrees allowed for a full day of hiking, bathing, drinking, and touring. It was a jackpot day in Hot Springs National Park.

Hot Water:

Hot water is the modern-day luxury for which I am most grateful. In Hot Springs, Arkansas, however, the hot water isn’t all that modern. In fact, the 142-degree water coming from the ground is 400 years old!

The Ouachita mountains surround Hot Springs National Park and were formed when two tectonic plates collided over 300 million years ago. The process left thousands of layers of cracked, broken rock. Rain falls into these cracks and descends 8,000 feet below the earth’s surface, where the rocks are extremely hot. Through conduction, the hot rocks slowly heat the rainwater. The water travels down for 4,000 years and ascends quickly back to the surface. And by quickly, I mean 400 years. Not very modern at all!

Because the water is heated by this geothermal process and not by volcanic magma like other hot water (i.e. Yellowstone), it is colorless and tasteless. Water from Hot Springs National Park is ideal not only for bathing, but also for drinking. After learning about this phenomenon, I understand why a national park exists here – to protect, celebrate, and enjoy this special water.

Hot Springs National Park, thermal spring fountain — Visitors fill jugs at a thermal spring fountain

Hot Baths:

Hot Springs has had many nicknames over the centuries. One of my favorites, the “American Spa,” was given to the city in the early 1800’s. The spa culture started with log cabin bath houses built in the 1830’s, and eventually evolved into the eight, still standing, bathhouses built by the 1920’s.

The peak time for these bath houses was the late 1940’s. Over the next 40 years, there was a decline in tourism and all but one shut down. The Fordyce Bathhouse is now the national park Visitor Center and offers both self-guided and complimentary ranger-led tours to give you an idea of what the bathhouses were like in their prime. We did a version of the self-guided tour, but I will be sure to join a ranger-led tour on my next trip.

If you are curious about the bathhouses, the Fordyce exhibit is a great place to start, but I highly recommend getting in the water. My cousin, Hillis, and I opted to bathe at the Quapaw Bathhouse – one of the two remaining functioning bathhouses. We spent about an hour and a half enjoying the public thermal pools at Quapaw, although they also offer private baths and traditional spa treatments. If you are looking for a more authentic bathhouse experience, the Buckstaff Bathouse offers various packages, several of which I have added to my To Do List for next visit.

Hot Springs National Park, Quapaw Bathhouse

Shower for pre and post bathing at Quapaw Bathhouse

Showers for pre and post bathing at Quapaw Bathhouse

Lockers to store belongings at Quapaw Bathhouse

Public Pools at Quapaw Bathhouse

Hot Trails:

Hot Springs National Park is not all about the water. Those Ouachita mountains that help make the hot springs also make for some great hikes. When I originally planned this trip, I assumed the temperature would be close to 100 degrees, so I wasn’t planning on hiking. Because the weather was so pleasant, Hillis and I changed our course and were able to get in a short hike. We opted for the Goat Rock Trail, which is one of the North Mountain trails. This trail is a moderate, 2.6-mile, out and back journey that took a little over an hour to complete. The hike is pleasant with plenty of shade and great views at the top. It is true that parking is difficult, but, like the weather, we lucked out and found the last spot in the small lot.

Hot Springs National Park, Goat Rock Trail

Top of Goat Rock Trail

View from top of Goat Rock Trail, Hot Springs National Park

Hot Beer (Cheese Dip):

As I mentioned, only two of the eight bathhouses on Bathhouse Row are still functioning. The Fordyce is the national park Visitor Center. The Hale is a hotel. The Lamar is the park gift store. The Ozark is the Hot Springs National Park Cultural Center. The Maurice is currently vacant. (Any takers?) And the Superior Bathhouse is a brewery. That’s right, A BREWERY – and the only in the world to use thermal spring water in their beer (not to mention the only one inside a national park). How can you not go?

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Surprise surprise, I was most excited for this part of the day. It never ceases to amaze me that our national parks really do have something for everyone. Knowing beer cheese dip was something everyone would enjoy, I recruited some family members to come join us for lunch. The adults shared the Beer Bath – a sampler of all 18 beers on tap with clever names and bold tastes like Big Dill (Pickle Sour), Spicy Ride (Jalapeno Ale), Foul Play (Oatmeal Stout), and DeSoto’s Folly (Golden Stout). It is a must do. The beer paired nicely with my chili-slaw dog. Yum!

Hot Springs National Park, Beer Bath with 18 sample beers at Superior Brewery

Beer Bath at Superior Bathhouse Brewery

Hot Springs National Park, Superior Bathhouse Brewery, Beer Bath

Beer Bath with 18 sample beers

Hot Springs National Park, Superior Bathhouse Brewery

Hillis and Mary at Superior Bathhouse Brewery

Hot Operations:

My very favorite part of this trip to Hot Springs National Park was our visit to The Gangster Museum. I briefly recalled that Hot Springs had a claim to mob fame, but our time in the museum gave a great overview to the whole illegal scene going on in Hot Springs over the decades. At first I thought our tour guide’s gangster outfit and jokes were a little silly, but by the end of the tour I was all in. When we arrived home, I checked out a copy of David Hill’s The Vapors, a book about the mob in Hot Springs. If you want to adequately prepare for your visit to Hot Springs, I suggest you read the book.

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Hot Springs National Park, The Gangster Museum gift shop

The museum gift shop offers hats for sale and a nod to the Hatterie Hotel (and brothel) of the 1930’s.

As Al Capone once said, “You can get much further with a kind word and a beer than you can with a kind word alone.” That’s what it was… right? Whatever the quote, after this visit, I have many a kind word to say about Hot Springs National Park. The day, paired with a pickle beer, was well worth the trip. Even in the heat of a Hot Springs Summer.

Next up… Glacier National Park… Coming September 2024!

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Olympic National Park (# 15/63) – No rain in the rainforest

June 7, 2024

Olympic National Park – Day 1

Sunset over the Olympic Mountain Range
Olympic National Park — Sunset over the Olympic Mountain Range

Home to Vampires:

Diverse Landscapes:

Easy Touring:

The Cullens must have been on vacation. The weather last week in Olympic National Park was so outstanding that had the vampires been in town, it would have felt like touring a jewelry store instead of a rainforest. Even though it would have been extraordinary to meet Edward or Bella, the warm air and sunny sky more than made up for missing them. Olympic National Park is the 15th park in my quest to visit all 63 National Parks in the U.S.

This park is the most diverse I have visited so far on my journey. In three days, we saw the snow-peaked Olympic Mountain range, pristine alpine lakes, two temperate rainforests, and the intimidating Washington coast. Each of these three landscapes has a beauty and magic of its own. As you are walking in the forest or along the coast, it isn’t difficult to believe in vampires, werewolves, and other fictional creatures. If you have more time… a week, a month, a summer… I recommend spending it all in this wonderful place.

For those of you who don’t enjoy day-long hikes– no worries! We had spectacular views with short, easy hikes. There is a lot of driving though, so choose your travel companions wisely. Luckily for me, my brother joined us for this trip. He has lived in Washington for several decades, and thus was the perfect tour guide.

Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

We arrived at the Hurricane Ridge visitor center (which burned down in 2023) at about 10:00 am on a Wednesday. There are many hikes that start here that all sounded fabulous. But because we had a lot of ground to cover in a short time, we opted for the High Ridge Trail. This is a moderate, 1-mile round-trip trail with great views for the effort. You even get to pass the quaint ski patrol cabin and lift. Olympic National Park is one of only three national parks to offer downhill skiing, snowboarding, and snow tubing. (Yosemite and Cuyahoga National Parks being the other two.) There were a few remnant patches of snow on the trail to remind us of how fun -and cold- this park might be in the winter.

Clear view of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge

Clear view of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park

Picture perfect weather on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge

Stunning views of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park

A reminder of winter recreational activities at Hurricaine Ridge in Olympic National Park as see on the High Ridge Trail

Great visibility of the Olympic Mountains on High Ridge Trail at Hurricane Ridge

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park

View of Lake Crescent from the Lake Crescent Lodge in Olympic National Park

After Hurricane Ridge, we meandered over to Lake Crescent. This glacier-carved lake is simply stunning… and chilling. For those True Crime fans, if you aren’t aware of the story of the Lady of the Lake, you are missing a good one.

Before eating lunch at Lake Crescent lodge, we hiked the Marymere Falls trail. This hike is just under 2 miles, easy, and full of outstanding views.

The light was amazing on the sunny hike of Marymere Falls Trail in

Have to get a sign photo of Lake Cresent

Moss covered tree - Marymere Falls Trail

A bridge over troubled water on Marymere Falls Trail

Trees on Marymere Falls Trail are big enough that you can fit inside them.

The star of the trai - Marymere Falls in Olympic National Park

Enormous moss covered tree on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

Picture perfect scenery on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

Grinch-like moss covered tree on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

A bridge over troubled waters on Marymere Falls Trail in Olympic National Park

Friendly face in the parking lot of Marymere Falls trailhead in
Olympic National Park

Cute tunnel on Marymere Falls trail in
Olympic National Park

Fun times on Marymere Falls trail in Olympic National Park

Lunch at the Lake Crescent Lodge was delicious. On the drive from Seattle, we passed through the town of Sequim and the Dungeness Spit. The former is known as the “Lavender Capital of North America,” and the latter is associated with the crab. Not having had the time to visit either place, we honored them by ordering the Lavender Lemonade and the Dungeness Crab Louie Salad. We were fortunate to arrive at the lodge just before they stopped serving lunch. We were also fortunate to dine at a window table, from which the views were something out of a Normal Rockwell painting.

View from Lake Crescent Lodge

The quaint Lake Cresent Lodge as you approach from the parking lot.

Lake Crescent Lodge

Sol Duc Valley,

Olympic National Park

After lunch, we hiked to another waterfall, Sol Duc Falls. This trail is another easy, 1.5-mile hike with stunning views and a waterfall. If you are like me, waterfalls alone are worth a hike.

On the drive to the trail head, we passed a great viewing spot over the Sol Duc river where, if you time it right, you can watch the salmon run.

Another activity we had to pass on this trip was a visit to the hot springs in Sol Duc. Since my visit to Hot Springs National Park is just around the corner, we opted to take a rain check on the Sol Duc hot springs.

Not to skip, however, is the Native American legend of the creation of these hot spring.

The Sol Duc Falls trails winds through tall, moss covered trees in Olympic National Park. — Sol Duc Falls Trail

A stream flows through a gathering of moss covered rocks on Sol Duc Falls Trail in Olympic National park — Sol Duc Falls Trail

Forks, Washington

Next on the agenda was to check into our lodging. We stayed in the town of Forks at the Pacific Inn Hotel. The rooms were clean, freshly painted, and well kept. The town itself is very cute and conveniently located for touring the park. For those interested, Forks also houses the infamous Twilight Museum.

Feeling a little Team Edward AND Team Jacob, we picked up a pizza at Pacific Pizza in Forks and then headed to the beaches of La Push, home to the Quileute tribe and the Black family.

The unassuming but comfortable Pacific Inn in Forks, Washington in the
Olympic National Park

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park

The goal was to hike to Hole-in-the-Wall on Rialto Beach, back to the parking lot, and then enjoy our pizza while watching the sunset over the sea stacks. We did, in fact, achieve our goal, but I completely underestimated Rialto Beach and the difficulty I would have getting around.

The beach is rocky with enormous logs of drift wood scattered about, making it quite literally an obstacle course. At one point the path along the beach was interrupted by a stream of water too wide for a human to jump. Being neither werewolf nor vampire, we had two choices: get wet or walk on top of the lattice-work of logs. Adding to my anxiety was the approaching high tide. Not to have my plans thwarted, we made it across the stream, to Hole-in-the-Wall and back to safety in time to enjoy the sunset. Needless to say, I slept well this night!

Rialto Beach

Driftwood Scramble

Hole-in-the-Wall

Sea stacks

Sea Stacks

Sunset on Rialto Beach
Olympic National Park

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Olympic National Park: From Crashing Coasts to Serene Streams

June 6, 2024

Day 2:

Cape Flattery, near Olympic National Park

One of the bazillion problems with having a bucket list item of visiting all 63 national parks by the time I turn 63 years old, is that I don’t get to spend enough time in any one place, an understatement for Olympic National Park. My focus is usually to hit the highlights and move on. Having this mindset, I tend to limit myself and underestimate how much I can see in one visit.

A benefit of having the right travel companions is that they can help you stay positive and spontaneous. I had taken Cape Flattery off our itinerary because I thought we would run out of time. Thankfully, my brother thought that was a terrible excuse and we started the second day of our trip at the most northwestern tip of the lower 48 United States– in Cape Flattery.

The view of the coast as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail

Happy to have made the drive to Cape Flattery

The view of the coast as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail

Cape Flattery is near Neah Bay, actually outside of Olympic National Park, in the Makah Reservation. A permit is required to park by the trailhead. We got ours for twenty dollars at the Makah Marina.

The Cape Flattery Tail is an easy, 1.5-mile trail that is picturesque from beginning to its astounding end, and absolutely worth the trip.

Oversized chair at the trail head of Cape Flattery Trail — One of the several oversized chairs seen on the trip.

Wooden planked walk day on Cape Flattery Trail — Wooden planked pathway of Cape Flattery Trail

Frog on Cape Flattery Trail near Olympic National Park — Friend on the Cape Flattery Trail

Tatoosh Island, Cape Flattery as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail — Tatoosh Island, Cape Flattery, as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail

The Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park

Iconic Photo from Hall of Mosses Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park

Want to feel like you are in a Disney movie? Then visit the Hoh Rain Forest and all its enchantment. The moss-covered rocks, the densely packed trees, the unending ferns, the gentle streams, and the blue Hoh river all work together to create a magical world, fit for all of us princesses. Twelve feet of rainfall per year helps create the lush growth of this temperate rainforest. The other temperate rainforest we visited is the Quinault Rain Forest, which is on the agenda for Day 3 in Olympic National Park.

Tree draped in moss on Hall of Mosses trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Trees draped in moss on Hall of Mosses Trail

Large heart shaped tree root on Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Large heart-shaped tree root on Spruce Nature Trail

Two easy hikes that are worth the effort are the Hall of Mosses Trail and the Spruce Nature Trail.

Serene Stream seen on the Hall of Mosses Trail in the Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Serene Stream, Hall of Mosses Trail, Olympic National Park

Snake in fern on Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Slithery friend on Spruce Nature Trail

The Hoh River at the end of the Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Skaff by the the Hoh River

One of my favorite parts of the Spruce Nature Trail was spending some time by the Hoh River. I could have stayed here all afternoon. The boys had fun walking on logs, while I watched a Bald Eagle fly over head.

Bald Eagle flies over Hoh River at the end of the Spruce Nature Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park — Sean pointing to the Bald Eagle flying over the Hoh River at the end of the Spruce Nature Trail

Ruby Beach, Olympic National Park

Before dinner, we made a stop at Ruby Beach. Another beautiful sight with rocky beaches, large logs, and sea stacks.

Sean scrambling atop large driftwood log over stream on Ruby Beach

The rocky beach and sea stack of Ruby Beach

Dinner at Longhouse Cafe in Forks

If I’m honest, I get as excited about food as I do about nature. The Longhouse Cafe in Forks is just down the road from the Pacific Inn, but tucked away in the parking lot of Dew Drop Hotel, making it a bit difficult to find. We ordered fresh halibut bites, birria fries, and barbecue sandwiches on fry bread. So good!

Freshly caught halibut served at the Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington

Halibut Bites

Longhouse Cafe in Forks

Birria Fries at Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington

Barbecue sandwich on fry bread at Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington

Wildlife Spotting

The last item on our list for Day 2 in Olympic National Park was to see some wildlife. We got lucky and after dinner saw two herds of Roosevelt Elk and one deer. It was an excellent way to end our day, and certainly made our hearts grow fawn’der!

A deer in Olympic National Park

Roosevelt Elk in Olympic National Park

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Olympic National Park: Lasts but not Leasts

June 5, 2024

Day 3:

Quinault Rain Forest, Olympic National Park

Our first destination on Day 3 in Olympic National Park was the Quinault Rain Forest and Lake Quinault. We opted to hike the Falls Creek and Quinault Loop Trails. Together, this was an easy 2-mile hike with all the right components including that enchanting moss, tall trees, creeks, and waterfalls.

Quinault Loop Trail Quinault Rain Forest Olympic National Park

Quinault Look Trail Quinault Rain Forest

Falls Creek Trail Quinault Rain Forest

Falls Creek Falls

Remember my new appreciation for champion trees after visiting Congaree National Park? Well, Quinault Rain Forest in Olympic National Park is home to SIX champion trees. In fact, this rain forest is sometimes referred to as the “Valley of Giants,” and it does not disappoint. Here, the enormous trees are often draped in moss to create an idyllic place to spend a few hours.

I realize that my descriptions of the scenery from the rainforests don’t vary a lot… incredibly tall trees, enchanting moss-covered everything, babbling creeks, turquoise blue rivers, magical lakes, marvelous waterfalls. There’s only so many times one woman can search “spectacular” on Thesaurus.com, so please do not let my monotonous adjectives deter you from visiting. My language might get old, but the views never do.

Moss covered tree on Quinault Loop Trail

Sean admiring the tall trees on Quinault Loop Trail

Quinault Loop Trail

The Quinault Loop Trail was not only beautiful, but informative as well. The signage on the trail was very well done. In particular, the information pertaining to temperate rainforests was successful in its attempt to increase awareness about the threats to their wellbeing from deforestation and climate change.

Example of the excellent signage on Quinault Loo Trail pertaining to rainforests. — **Signage on Quinault Loop Trail**

Did I mention this hike had outstanding water features? In addition to the streams and waterfall, we also enjoyed views of Lake Quinault.

Sean NOT trespassing to view Lake Quinault

Sean contemplating the meaning of life at Lake Quinault

Lake Quinault

Lake Quinault as seen from the Falls Creek Trail

Staircase

Our last stop for the day, and unfortunately for the trip as a whole, was the Staircase area of Olympic National Park. The Staircase Rapids Loop Trail had all the usual suspects (trees, moss, water), plus a very cool suspension bridge. This area is in the southeast corner of the park and a bit out of the way, but it is totally worth the detour.

Skaff and Sean by Staircase Rapids

Douglas Fir by a Cedar tree with their different barks. Common trees in Olympic National Park's rainforests.

Douglas Fir and Cedar trees with their different barks.

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Suspension Bridge over Staircase Rapids

Sean on wooden bridge Staircase Rapids Trail Olympic National Park

Staircase Rapids Loop Trail

Moss covered boulders Staircase Rapids Trail

Moss covered boulders on Staircase Rapids Loop Trail

Staircase Rapids Trail Olympic National Park

Staircase Rapids Loop Trail

I was so sad for this perfect trip to end. My only hope is to report another amazing day in Hot Springs National park in July… anticipating a truly sizzling experience!

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Congaree National Park: A Forest for Irregulars

May 21, 2024

Congaree National Park: A Forest for Irregulars

National parks and roadside barbecue restaurants have one thing in common – they are both excellent places for self-discovery. Having just returned from a trip that included both, I have come to an important self-realization: I am an irregular.

My friend, Allene, and I were waiting in line at Maurice’s Piggie Park barbecue restaurant outside of Columbia, South Carolina, when we met a regular. He comes to this restaurant twice a week for lunch and orders the same thing every time – the pork dinner with fried okra and Carolina hash. Even though we appreciated his recommendation for our meal, Allene and I decided to share a dinner with chicken, pork, and brisket along with the Carolina hash and collard greens. The food was all excellent, but the collards in particular were simply outstanding. Allene wanted to let our friend know what he was missing by not trying something new… by not being a little more irregular.

My irregularity not only pertains to my lunch choices, but also in my quest to visit all 63 national parks. People ask me time and time again why this is a goal for me. My answer to them, as least for today, is Congaree National Park.

A Park of Champions

Congaree National Park, up until very recently, is one of the least visited parks in the country. It doesn’t boast cliff faces, geysers, or rattlesnakes. However, this quiet, humble park is simply spectacular.

The first impressive feature of the park is that, like the New England Patriots, it houses a lot of champions. Did you know that a tree can be designated as a “Champion Tree?” There is a certain formula that is used to bestow this arborary award that includes trunk circumference, height, and other measures of size. Although the exact number changes as trees fall, Congaree has the highest concentration of these behemoths anywhere in North America. Unlike an NFL ticket, it is free to enter this winner’s circle and marvel at its greatness.

A Place of Stories

After visiting Congaree twice, I have a new appreciation for its habitat, the bottomland hardwood forest. This type of forest sits on low ground and floods intermittently. The result is a unique ecosystem that has supported human life for 10,000 years! The hikes are flat, but guide you to places where you find yourself alone, surrounded by old trees and eerie stillness. The quiet along Weston Lake Loop trail whispers the story of centuries of people who found themselves here and a forest that survived destructive industrialization.

I recommend the complete board-walk hike and at least one other trail to the forest floor. For the complete experience, take a canoe tour on Cedar Creek. I did this on my first trip to Congaree through Palmetto Outdoors and it was excellent.

A Prize to Win

To further convince you to visit, it’s time for the Hail Mary… the tiny, bioluminescent Photuris frontalis. Not only a great name for the back of a football jersey, this species of firefly is one of only three in North America that can completely synchronize its flashing. Imagine moving strands of Christmas lights stretched throughout a dim forest, all blinking at the same time.

I learned about these fireflies during my first trip to Congaree. There are only three places in the US that you can see synchronous fireflies. Congaree National Park is one of them. To see this show, you have to enter a lottery in April. The viewing happens for about 2 weeks in mid to late May. I entered the lottery in April 2023 and did not win a pass. I persevered, however, and won this year. Since the park is only a four hour drive from Atlanta, I made a special trip just to get a dose of twinkling dopamine.

Internet Photos of the Synchronous fireflies

A Nighttime Spectacle

On days with firefly viewing events, the park closes at 4:30 pm and reopens at 7:00 pm. We arrived minutes after 7:00 pm to find an impressive line of cars waiting. There are checkpoints before entering the park where rangers will scan your pass and check that your photo ID matches the name on your pass. The ranger will give you a red flashlight and some brief information.

After checking in, we parked our car and headed to the Harry Hampton visitor center which stays open until 10pm on these special evenings. We then walked some of the board-walk trail until about 8:15 pm when we headed back to the roped-off, designated viewing trail. The synchronous fireflies stay low to the forest floor so the best way to view their blinking is by sitting on the ground. The middle of the path was crowded, but we found space to sit towards the end of the trail. First twinkling started about 8:30 pm and by 9:00 pm the show was at its peak.

Firefly viewing is similar to eclipse viewing, whale watching or seeing the Northern Lights…the experience is not guaranteed and is dependent on weather and other factors. On our visit, the moon was bright which pulled the lightning bugs deeper into the forest and further from the viewing areas as the night progressed. By 9:30 pm, the blinking slowed and people started leaving.

*How watching the Synchronous Fireflies at Congaree National Park made me feel.

Like attending an NFL game, there was a lot of pre-game excitement. “I won the lottery! We have tickets!! Who’s going? What will I wear?” Prior to the real firefly experience, the vision in my mind was a cross between the blue Will-o’-the-Wisp path in Brave and the lanterns filling the night sky in Tangled. The actual experience was not as dramatic or life changing, but it really was incredible and unique. It was irregular.

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Joshua Tree National Park (#10) – Day 1

March 20, 2024

Joshua Tree National Park:

A Religious Experience

Thursday, April 27, 2023

Day 1: In God’s Country

In 1987, U2 wrote an album that deeply resonated with me (…and 25 million other people). In 2023, I visited their spiritual land with its desert plains and highest mountains– Joshua Tree National Park.

Joshua Tree is a place for wandering and wondering. I was fortunate to visit the park in the spring, the season of renewal and rebirth. Spring is here again, along with its religious holidays, and is a perfect time to reflect and introspect.

My husband, Sean, and I arrived in the park at about 6:00pm on a Thursday evening in late April. As we traveled along Park Boulevard, I was struck by the expansive and seemingly inhospitable landscape of spiked trees and large boulders. Anticipating large crowds this time of year, I was surprised that we were the only car on the road for the twenty miles to Keys View.

The isolating drive, along with the bizarre and incomprehensible landscape, resulted in a first impression of the park that is best described as befuddlement. But as we pulled into the parking lot at Keys View minutes before sunset, those unpleasantries were washed away. Nestled into the side of the Little San Bernadino Mountains, a small crowd was already gathered to watch the sunset over the Coachella Valley. Through the hushed whispers of anticipation, there was a silent communion amongst us. Together, we watched the spectacular colors of the sun bleed into one. And even though we took the same lonely road out of the park, there were only feelings of contentment and understanding.

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Joshua Tree National Park – Day 2

March 18, 2024

Friday, April 28, 2023

Joshua Tree National Park

Day 2: The Stations of Joshua Tree

Skull Rock

Day two of our trip was busy. The first stop on our pilgrimage was Skull Rock. A great motivator to begin a spiritual quest is the idea of death and our own mortality. As you stare into the hollow eyes of the giant skull, perhaps you are reminded of the meaninglessness of the human experience or of victory over death. Or maybe all you get from the heady stare is poison and pirates. Whatever the rock means to you, get there early. It is a popular spot.

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Heart Rock

After the heavy reminder of death, where better to run than the temple of love? Our second station, Heart Rock, is a fun and happy place to visit. Shooting up like a bloom from the stony ground, this large heart is the appropriate place to contemplate the One-ness of it all.

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Arch Rock

Adjacent to Heart Rock, the third station we visited was Arch Rock. We honored the sanctity of Spring by walking through the symbol of rebirth and renewal, leaving behind the old and entering the new.

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Cholla Cactus Garden

Station four was Cholla Cactus Garden. The Cholla Cactus Garden is an adorable, 10-acre, non-petting zoo of desert vegetation. Rivaling puppy yoga for sheer cuteness, the Teddy bear cholla cacti are the sweetest things! Neither puppy yoga nor Teddy bear chollas have religious or spiritual meaning, so the only way I can tie them into this analogy is that this garden brings me great joy. On your spiritual pilgrimage to Joshua Tree, take a break from all the seriousness and go play in the cactus garden.

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Hall of Horrors

Our fifth stop of the day was The Hall of Horrors. This large area is confusing and the streets have no names. If you are fortunate enough to find the slot canyons, the tight squeeze will give you an interesting perspective about narrow paths.

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Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley was station six. The name comes from the legend that it was a place where rustlers hid stolen livestock during the transportation between California and Arizona. Concealed by a ring of massive boulders, this flat, one-mile hike is the perfect, secretive place to contemplate the Parable of the Hidden Treasure or the Tibetan Buddhists’ beyuls.

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Fortynine Palms Oasis

The seventh and last stop of the day was Fortynine Palms Oasis. This challenging hike was the pinnacle of my spiritual journey as it was the place I came closest to death. We started the hike at noon, thinking we were adequately prepared with hats, sun protection, water, and snacks. We were not. I started feeling a little uneasy about three quarters of the way to the oasis. Just when I was about to suggest turning around, I could see the oasis in the distance, so we persevered. Had I not been experiencing some mild heat exhaustion, I don’t think I would have appreciated the literal and spiritual meanings of the word as much as I did that day. It is an absolute must see, but PLEASE hike in the morning.

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Joshua Tree National Park – Day 3

March 17, 2024

Saturday, April 29, 2023

Joshua Tree National Park

Day 3: The (2nd) Highest Mountain

There was one goal for the 3^rd day of our trip: hike Ryan Mountain before heading back to Las Vegas.

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Having learned valuable lessons from the previous afternoon, we were atop Ryan Mountain by 7:30am. Although no oasis greeted us at the peak, we did see Satan… or just a rattlesnake. To end our trip at this 2nd highest peak in the park felt victorious. What a beautiful day!

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On our drive back to Las Vegas, we passed acres and acres of Joshua Trees. A last symbol of this spiritual journey, the tree is rumored to be named by Mormon missionaries after the biblical figure, Joshua. Whether the upward branches of the tree were seen as his prayerful arms lifted towards heaven, or the sword-like leaves were reminiscent of the biblical war leader, Bono was not the first to find this land spiritually inspiring. Joshua Tree, with its mysterious ways, is a place of surprise and fascination. Come meander its dusty ground and just maybe you’ll find what you’re looking for.

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Exploring the Depths: Winter at Mammoth Cave National Park (#9 of 63)

January 23, 2024

Fight the February Funk

Just when we think we’ve made it through the rough patches of January, February creeps in with its dreary haze. Wispy dampness seeps into your joints, fogs your mind, and blankets your joy. Many of us feel such winter gloom and have created strategies to ward off this seasonal threat to our souls. If not already in your arsenal, consider using the healing powers of a national park as a weapon to restore happiness. February is a great time to visit a sunny, dry, glorious park with blue skies and tall mountains. Last February, however, I decided to do the opposite. Instead, I visited a park that mirrored the bleakness of my being. A park of vast darkness and no natural light. A park where without a guide, you could become lost forever. A park called Mammoth Cave.

Introducing ALMA

My tip to having a good time in a dark, cold cave is to take bright, warm people. Introducing my bright, warm people…Allene, Amy, and Michelle. Allene, Amy, Michelle, and I have been friends for almost 15 years. Our little group bonded first over kids, and then concerts, and now we enjoy our time appreciating the outdoors. Several months ago, we decided to refer to ourselves as ALMA (Amy, Lindara, Michelle, Allene). Unbeknownst to us at time, ALMA can mean “nourishing, spirit, and heart” with its Hebrew, Spanish, and Arabic roots. It is a word that perfectly describes these women. So grab your ALMA and head to Mammoth Cave.

Mammoth Cave – #9 of 63

All imagery and adjectives aside, Mammoth Cave was another early pick in my quest of the 63 due to its proximity to Atlanta– it is only a 5 hour drive. And for us Atlantans, there is another perk in the form of a detour. That detour is Nashville, Tennessee.

Detour – Nashville

We started our journey on a Saturday, leaving Atlanta in the early afternoon and arriving in Nashville in time for an early dinner and a little honky-tonk at the infamous “Tootsies” on music row. Our time was short, but it was a nice prelude for our trip. (Thank you, Allene, for the great suggestion!)

Touring the Caves

I understand that for some of you, Mammoth Cave might be in the same category as Everglades or Biscayne, the category that lacks the heart stopping grandeur of some other parks. To you people, I say… these caves are really impressive! The caves at Mammoth make up the longest cave system in the world and encompass an entirely unique and amazing ecosystem.

On this trip, the primary focus was exploring the caves. The only way to meander through them is by joining one of the national park tours. As you walk through the caves, your guide teaches you about their geologic formation, their discovery, and their development for public touring. In dim light, you follow your guide with hushed voices while surrounded by spectacular walls of limestone, shale, and sandstone. My favorite stories were of Stephen Bishop, a slave who was responsible for discovering many parts of the cave system and who acted as the first tour guide. The stories of Bishop, told in the almost dark, brought to life his adventurous, brave, and romantic soul.

There are several cave tours to choose from on the NPS website, but because February is not a busy season, our options were limited. We chose the Historic Tour on Sunday which provided us with fascinating and captivating stories while surrounded by the ancient formations. On Monday, we joined the Cleaveland Avenue Tour, venturing into the depths of the cave’s intricate passages. This tour was less crowded and allowed us to witness the grandeur of Mammoth Cave from a different perspective. Even if you are touring in the off-season, be sure to get your tour tickets in advance! They really do sell out.

Tour tickets –click here

Lodging

When visiting national parks, I try to stay in the park if lodging is available. Staying within the park means more time for fun and less driving. On this trip, there was only one option available at Sunset Terrace, a part of the Lodge at Mammoth Cave. Our room was… rustic (and not in the cute, pastoral way), although we did have a herd of deer that greeted us in the evenings. On my next visit, I would love to check out one of the cottages.

To-Do List

There is never enough time to do and see everything. Two attractions we had hoped to see were closed during our trip, The National Corvette Museum and Lost River Cave. Located in Bowling Green, just 40 minutes from Mammoth Cave, they both have good reviews and are at the top of my list for my return visit.

Put it on your list!

Even if you only have a day or two, Mammoth Cave is unquestionably worth the visit. I felt similar emotions while staring up at the walls of Cathedral Domes that I have when I look at the ocean, a feeling of wonder and awe that connects me to something bigger than myself; a feeling of peace and restfulness. I left Mammoth Cave last year feeling restored from the February Funk and hopeful for the spring.

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The Everglades National Park (#13) – Day 1

January 19, 2024

Hello to my National Park enthusiasts and welcome to my first “live” blog. By “live”, I mean that I just got back and want to tell you all about my trip… the good, the bad, the must-do’s, and the not-so-must-do’s.

First, let me introduce the most important part of this trip, my travel companions. These two are better known as my two evil stepsisters. Wait… that’s for my Disney blog. 😉 Joining me on this trip were my two hilarious, fun-loving sisters-in-laws, Dawn and Lindsay. Together, we made quite the reptile regiment. Lindsay has the best sense of direction and the newest phone, so she became the NaviGator. Dawn likes to stir the pot from time to time and keep the group morale alive, therefore making her an excellent InstiGator. I like reading about the places I go beforehand and creating detailed itineraries, thus receiving the title of InvestiGator. Dawn enjoys most water activities, including snorkeling. Lindsay loves challenging hikes and hugging bears, but won’t get in the water to snorkel for fear of becoming shark bait. Their opposite interests attract, which makes them two of the best travel companions. We enjoyed some fun activities, ate some good food and met some great people. I hope I enticed them to join me on future trips.

Anastasia, Drizella and I… Sorry, I just can’t help myself. Dawn, Lindsay and I all live in the Atlanta area. The main reason we chose the Everglades is its proximity to Atlanta and also to Biscayne National Park. It was easy to plan a 4 day, 3 night trip and visit both parks. Our first day was mostly a travel day. We left Atlanta on a Wednesday morning. Thank you Southwest for keeping all the plane doors intact! We arrived in Miami and were faced with our first challenge…finding the rental car facility. It would have been easier to wrestle an alligator. We did not find the Miami airport to be either user friendly or attractive. Reliving this goose chase brings me to the first item on my Don’t-Do list. I tried to be a budget-savvy traveler and get us a great rate on a rental. I went through AutoSlash and chose a car from Economy Rent-a-Car. The process did not go as expected. CAUTION if you are planning to do the same. Their facility is one of the off-site rental companies and signs for the shuttle are not well marked. My advice is to spot another distressed looking tourist and work together as a team to get there. It’s like a fun, unexpected scavenger hunt. Just give yourself plenty of time to play the Find Your Car game. Needless to say, I was a bit cranky at this point. Thank goodness for Lindsay though, who grabbed us some empanadas from the glorious food truck outside of the car rental building. Dearest truck, you make outstanding empanadas which we would have missed had things gone more smoothly. Always a silver lining.

After getting our car, we hopped on in, empanadas in hand, and drove 45 minutes to Shark Valley, just in time for the 4:00 tram tour. The two options that I considered at Shark Valley were the tram tour and renting bikes. I ultimately decided on the Shark Valley tram tour but wish we could have done both. Quick shout out to all the national park guides who love these special places and share their knowledge and enthusiasm. Thank you!

While I absolutely recommend the tram tour, I was a little disappointed that we didn’t see more alligators. We did get to see a few, and one particularly large boy who was hanging out on the road, but they were few and far between. The alligators are less active in the cooler winter, but fortunately so are the mosquitoes– and that is an acceptable tradeoff for me. Speaking of trades, while we saw fewer gaggles of gators, we saw a plethora of feathered friends. I did not consider myself a bird lover, but the Everglades has made me reconsider. The Great White Egret was the first to greet us and the last to say good-bye. After our time in the Everglades, we were able to identify the Great Blue Heron with its scarf of winter feathers, the Double Breasted Cormorant, the Red-Shoulder Hawk, the Purple Gallinule, the cranky Osprey protecting her nest, the White Pelicans having a block party, and the Brown Pelicans wishing they were invited to the block party. You might not think you are a bird person either, but if you spend some time in the Everglades, you will be! When you visit, be sure to bring your binoculars.

On the tram tour we stopped at the Shark Valley Observatory Tower which is very much like Clingman’s Dome Tower in Great Smokey Mountains National Park. It is the highest elevation in the Everglades National Park at 70 feet. Atop the tower, we first spotted our first female anhinga, who, in her feathered fashion, reminded us of Moira from Schitt’s Creek.

After our tour, we headed back to Homestead for dinner and to check into our hotel. We stayed at T ownePlace S uites. I enjoyed our stay here, except for the noise complaint we got. Really? Whatever. As the kids say, our haters can stay mad! The room included breakfast in the morning, a full-sized refrigerator, and a kitchenette – all which came in handy. It was a comfortable stay and we were well rested for Day 2.

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