“All across the nation people are starting out on vacations to be spent in…parks. [In] their tents under the stars, with an open fire to cook by, with the smell of the woods, and the wind in the trees, they will forget the rush and strain of all the other long weeks of the years, and for a short time at least, the days will be good for their hearts and for their souls.” – President Franklin D. Roosevelt, Shenandoah National Park Dedication at Big Meadows, 1936
Nearly a century later, FDR’s words remain remarkably true. Earlier this month, I was fortunate enough to step away from the busyness of life and, for a short time, nurture both my heart and soul.
The nurturing came not only from the mountains, wildflowers, and winding trails of Shenandoah National Park, but also from the company I kept. For national park visit number 19, I was joined by my cousins—Debbie, Amy, and Amber. Ever generous and good-humored, they indulged my national park obsession by agreeing to meet in Virginia for our long-overdue reunion.
In tents under stars
The weather for our trip was perfect—though not the kind of “perfect” that typically draws visitors to Shenandoah. Instead of crisp autumn days and jeweled foliage, Shenandoah in April offered us something moodier and more contemplative. The mornings were cold, encouraging slow, lazy breakfasts over steaming coffee and slices of Amy’s famous coffee cake.
View from Airbnb in Front Royal, VA about 1.6 miles from the most northern entrance of the park.
Smell of the woods, wind in the trees
The air was damp and misty on our first afternoon in the park. Ice lingered on the rocks and tree branches at Stony Man Summit. Bundled in layers, we were primed for bear spotting (Hey, Bear!), but a ranger informed us that an outbreak of mange had reduced the bear population by almost half. While mange kept the bears away, the cold weather drove other humans indoors. For a little while, it felt like we had the park all to ourselves.
View from Stony Man summit
By our second afternoon in Shenandoah National Park, the skies had turned blue. The warmer temperatures attracted more people and the trails, especially Dark Hollow Falls, were noticeably more crowded. In search of quieter paths, we hiked Hawksbill Mountain, which rewarded us with both breathtaking views and the kind of solitude that makes the effort feel so worthwhile.
Amber by Dark Hollow FallsView from Hawksbill MountainView of Old Rag
An open fire to cook by
We also spent some time at the Harry F. Byrd Sr. Visitor Center where we read FDR’s words of dedication which are so relateable. Sure, we swapped tents for an Airbnb and open fires for an oven, but the meals we shared were equally as wholesome. While snacking on Debbie’s homemade humus (pro tip: remove the skins of the chick peas) and sipping on Amber’s expertly selected wines, we made some grape leaves that surely made our Sittu proud.
Between cooking, hiking, a few rounds of Boggle, and deep conversations about everything from life to the intricacies of time travel, we created the perfect recipe for days that truly were good for both heart and soul.
I tried, I really did. I planned on writing this entire post about Death Valley National Park without mentioning Star Wars, but in reality, no choice have I.
A week after returning from the largest national park in the contiguous U.S. (larger than Rhode Island plus Delaware), I find myself reflecting on the trip. My thoughts betray me and keep returning to Star Wars. It’s not just about where the films were shot, but rather how both Death Valley and the Stars Wars saga are filled with fascinating contradictions. Much like the blurred lines between good and evil in the films, Death’s Valley’s contradictions are striking – and difficult to fit into a neat little box.
Dry. The Driest. So. DRY.
Let’s start with obvious. Death Valley is the driest place in North America. I’m talking parched. Your skin will agree when I say it’s dry enough to make you wonder if you’ve accidentally stepped into a giant dehydrator. (Pro tip: bring lots of lip balm.)
And yet… not all dry. We stayed at The Inn at Death Valley where the grounds are green and lush. Streams of water and ponds with fountains gurgle and splash. We even spent one afternoon lounging under palm tress, swimming in the spring-fed pool. A part of the Oasis at Death Valley, The Inn offers a striking contrast to its surrounding arid landscape.
Renovated in 2018, the Inn at Death Valley is the perfect glamping spot.If you like historic national park hotels, The Inn at Death Valley is a must. The original inn was built in 1927 by the Pacific Borax Company. Death Valley is known for borax mining in the 1880’s.
Hot. The hottest. Not Always Hot.
Death Valley is reportedly the hottest place on Earth, with a recorded air temperature of 134° F. During our visit in January, we wore beanies and gloves in the early morning and evening hours, proving that Death Valley is not always scorching. January is a lovely time to visit.
Chilly morning while watching the sunrise over Zabriskie Point in Death Valley National Park
Low. The Lowest. But wait… a high?
From Dante’s view in Death Valley, you can look out and marvel at Badwater Basin, the lowest place in North America at 282 feet below sea level. And yet, if you raise your gaze to the horizon, you’ll spot a mountain peak in the distance. That mountain is Mount Whitney, the highest point in the lower 48 states. So low… and so high.
View of Badwater Basin from Dante’s View with Mt. Whitney in the horizon.Close up of Mt. Whitney as seen from Dante’s View in Death Valley National Park.
How low can you go? Sean pointing to the Sea Level sign in the parking lot of Badwater Basin.
“Sea Level” sign at Badwater Basin.
The Star Wars Connection
In preparation for our trip, Sean and I rewatched Star Wars: A New Hope to refresh our memories of the scenes filmed in Death Valley. Even if you are not a Star Wars fan, I highly recommend this assignment. The desert landscapes take on a new significance once you’ve seen them on the screen. I thought of Tatooine on every drive and every hike.
Twenty Mule Team Canyon drive is a MUST. This is a fun, roller-coaster drive that was also the setting for Jabba the Hut’s Palace in Return of the Jedi.
Golden Canyon was another site for Star Wars scenes.Golden Canyon is home to the JawasThere are several hikes that start at the Golden Canyon entrance. Golden Canyon Gower Gulch Loop Trail, Death Valley National Park
In 2020, when we were all binge watching something, I watched Star Wars: The Clone Wars. Anakin Skywalker quickly became a favorite character. Even though you know where Anakin’s journey ends, it’s hard not to like and admire him. The duality of Anakin is part of his appeal. The Star Wars saga is a story of contradictions, as is the story of Death Valley. It’s a place of extremes: stark and brutal, yet breathtakingly beautiful.
Devil’s Golf Course
A Landscape of Contradictions
One of the greatest contradictions of Death Valley is its appearance. The badlands and canyons here are some of the oldest formations in the world, millions of year old – yet walking across them, you feel like you’ve landed on another planet. In fact, NASA uses Death Valley as a stand-in for Mars when testing equipment for future planetary exploration. When you look up at the Death Valley night sky, you are reminded of these same planets awaiting exploration. Death Valley is an International Dark Sky park, meaning the stargazing is spectacular. During a ranger-led night sky program, we experienced a kind of darkness you rarely see. The beauty of the field of stars on a bed of black sky was indescribable. All my thoughts went to distant galaxies, space stations, and possibility of life beyond Earth.
Walking on Mars…or just on Badwater BasinGolf on Mars?
Perspective: Shades of Brown
When you first arrive in Death Valley, one word might come to mind: brown. Once you start exploring, however, you realize the colors here are more than a typical desert palette. The colors of Death Valley transform in the light of sunrise and sunset, shifting through shades of creamy beige, rusty red, mustard yellow and deep brown. There are even splashes of pink, purple and blue. The brown becomes rich, layered, and alive.
Good versus evil. Jedi versus Sith. Light side versus dark side. Desert brown versus spectacular brown. It’s all about perspective.
The colors of Artist’s Palette
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Death Valley: A Place of Paradoxes
In the end, Death Valley is not easy to define. It’s a place of unique, enigmatic contradictions. It is a desolate, quiet place, but like Anakin Skywalker, ” the Force is strong with this one”. Come see for yourself.
Photo Dump
Ubehebe Crater
Little Hebe Crater
Natural Bridge
Wagons at Harmony Borax Works
Sitting on a Mesquite Tree at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes
Big and beautiful. Crown of the continent. Emerald City of Oz.
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
Grinnell Point at Sunrise
Glacier National Park
The Wizard of Oz is a beloved story with many iterations, and I’d like to offer one more.
This Wizard of Oz chronicle begins with a middle-aged woman, DarThia, who lives in a hot, humid suburb of Atlanta, Georgia. DarThia leads an ordinary life, but longs for moments when she escapes to other parts of the country where nature is preserved, and the surroundings are inspiring to her heart and healing to her soul.
During the prequel to this story, DarThia met some interesting characters. Long ago, she met a scarecrow who thought he needed a brain but was the smartest person DarThia had ever met. So, she married him.
Scarecrow and DarThia
Sometime later, DarThia met a lioness who thought she was cowardly because she was afraid of heights, but was the bravest person DarThia had ever met. So, she made her a friend.
Lioness
Lioness was married to Tin Man who had the biggest heart of anyone DarThia had ever met, so she made him a friend, too.
Tin Man
DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness, and Tin Man have had many adventures, but the one I’d like to tell you about today is their trip to Glacier National Park, or as they called it – Oz.
Chapter 2: We’re not in Atlanta Anymore!
Glacier National Park is located in northwest Montana, adjacent to Canada, and getting there can be difficult. There are several options, although arrival by cyclone is not the preferred method. Our quartet of travelers chose a Delta flight from Atlanta to Bozeman, Montana.
The Yellow Brick Road “Going to The Sun Road” is the main road in Glacier National Park, running East to West. The group of travelers started on the east side of the park and slowly worked westward. They did consider a direct flight to Kalispel, Montana, but the long drives from Bozeman and Missoula provided the necessary scenery and time for an epic playlist, both of which make this story a classic.
Lioness sings “Over the Rainbow” during long drive.
Chapter 3: lions and tigers AND BEARS! Oh my!!
Bear spray … necessity or scam? Close encounters with bears seem to be rare in Glacier National Park. However, Dorothy thought Winged Monkeys were rare in Oz and look what happened to her. Wanting protection against both angry bears and magical monkeys, DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness and Tin Man stopped at the Walmart in Bozeman to purchase bear spray and snacks.
Spoiler alert… the friends did not need to use the bear spray. They did eat quite a lot of snacks, though, and were very glad they stopped in Bozeman for both. Once they left Bozeman, the next opportunity for either was in St. Mary’s, four hours away.
Provisions in hand, the travelers were famished after the long day of travel. Their hunger led them to an adorable restaurant in Bozeman called “Roost Fried Chicken”, recommended by Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. Their meal here was one of their favorites.
Roost Fried Chicken
Recommended by Guy Fieri
Cheers!
CHAPTER 4: Browing, Montana
The journey from Bozeman to Browning consisted of hours of driving with no speed limit through seemingly endless plains scattered with cows. Rarely a human in sight, the skies were overcast while a compilation of Willie Nelson, Zach Bryan, and Tom Petty sang in the background as the travelers cruised through the open and rugged landscape.
The city of Browning is small. Our travelers were unsuccessful in finding a decent dinner that night. They all agreed it would have been better to avoid Taco John all together and stick to Cliff Bars. Although their bellies were not full, the travelers spent a safe night in Glacier Peaks Hotel and were up early the next morning to continue their journey.
Chapter 5: Totos
As the friends departed the next morning, the Totos of Browning came to wish them safe travels.
Toto 1
Totos 2 and 3
Chapter 6: Triple Waterfalls
The friends were delighted to finally arrive in Glacier National Park, and eager to journey along “Going to the Sun Road”. Their first stop was to admire Goose Island. Afterwards, they hiked to the triple falls – Barring, St. Mary’s, and Virginia Falls.
Goose Island
St. Mary’s Falls
Barring Falls
After several hours of hiking, the crew stopped in St. Mary’s for a well-deserved lunch at the Snowgoose Grill and filled the Tin Man’s heart with a rice crispy treat.
Glacier National Park is renowned for its huckleberry harvests. The travelers feasted on many huckleberry desserts.
Huckleberry Dessert
After lunch, they took a stroll around Swiftcurrent Lake via the Swiftcurrent Lake Nature Trail, all the way to Lake Josephine. After their afternoon stroll, they checked into their lodgings at Many Glacier Hotel.
The lobby of Many Glacier Hotel with hanging lanterns
The Swiss-style chalet of Many Glacier Hotel
Chapter 7: Harry the Moose
After admiring the beautiful lodge, the crew decided to make their way to Fishercap Lake via a short, easy trail, known for spotting moose. After a little while, Harry the Moose sauntered from the shrubbery, walked into the lake, and feasted on his grassy dinner. Harry’s hunger was contagious, and the traveler’s soon left to find their own dinners at The Ptarmigan Dining Room in Many Glacier Hotel.
Harry the Moose
CHAPTER 8: Grinnell Lake
The next day, DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness, and Tin Man awoke early as the sun rose over Swiftcurrent Lake and Grinnell Point.
Grinnell Point at Sunrise
Arm in arm, merrily singing, they set out on the Tan Dirt Road.
Tan, dirt road
Stunning mountainpeaks, distant waterfalls, dangerous suspension bridges, and miles of leafy vegetation (with hidden bears) flanked their path. The destination – Grinnell Lake. The wind, cold, sleet, and distance prevented them from reaching Grinnell Glacier, so they packed their backpacks full of scrumptious pre-made sandwiches from the coffee shop and picnicked with the chipmunks by the turquoise blue water of Grinnell Lake instead. The way back home along the water was more scenic (and less scary) than the morning path.
Happy Tin Man
Brave Lioness walks over a dangerous suspension bridge.
Tin Man framing a glacier
The friends by Grinnell Lake
Lunch guest
Path by the water
The group rewarded their herculean efforts that evening with a steak dinner at Cattle Baron Super Club, a local restaurant outside the park with a great story. Tin Man is still waiting for his beer.
Cattle Baron Supper Club
Inside Cattle Baron Supper Club
Chapter 9: David the Moose
Bellies full, the travelers were heading back to Fishercap Lake to see Harry again, when, to their delight, Tin Man’s eagle eye spotted a mother black bear and her two frolicking cubs.
Elated at seeing bears, the friends thought the night couldn’t get better. But this night did get better! While waiting for Harry (who never showed), David the Moose made a surprise appearance right along the trail where they were standing. One billion photos later, the group meandered back to Many Glacier hotel for a restful sleep.
David the Moose
Chapter 10: Finding the Hidden Lake
The next morning, the foursome were not all merry and bright. The plan for the day was to find the Hidden Lake, which required parking at the Logan Pass visitor center. The evening before, locals at the Cattle Baron recommend the group arrive “before daybreak” in order to secure a parking spot. Excellent advice, but it meant a very early morning without proper caffeine. It also meant that the stairs at the start of the hike were glazed with a thin, but daunting, sheet of fresh ice.
Right when regret started seeping into DarThia’s mind, the magical land of Oz and its wildlife began to wake up. A big furry grizzly bear was spotted in the distance. Not remotely close enough to be a threat, or for DarThia to see very well with the naked eye, DarThia and friends spent about 30 minutes watching this mammoth creature waddle along. Another tip… bring binoculars. We had a pair, and they made all the difference.
Grizzly Bear WAY in the distance
After watching A GRIZZLY BEAR enjoy its morning, we met an equally furry, although much smaller, friend, the Hoary marmot.
Live Hoary Marmot
Stuffed Hoary Marmot in Visitor Center
With a newfound joy for the day, the group made it to the summit with a spectacular view of the Hidden Lake. The photos do not do this justice. It was stunning!
After the favorite hike of the trip, it was back to the car and more driving along “Going to the Sun Road.” They stopped to take pictures at Bird Woman Falls and the West Tunnel.
“Stop Talking”
DarThia photgraphing Bird Woman Falls
Eyes on the road!
View from West Tunnel
The friends had lunch at Lake McDonald Lodge and hiked to Avalanche Creek afterwards.
That night, they slept at Apgar Village Lodge. DarThia enjoyed all the places they slept, but the view outside the rooms at Apgar made this her favorite hotel of the trip.
View just outside their rooms.
View of Lake McDonald
View of Lake McDonald at sunrise from room at Apgar Inn
Chapter 11: Scenic Float Trip
Water is everywhere in Glacier National Park and the friends were excited to be able to get on it. They opted for a Scenic Float trip on the Flathead River.
After being on the water all morning, it was time for another meal. Great Bear Cafe in Hungry Horse was recommend by Dirt in My Shoes and was excellent.
After lunch, the friends felt they had one more hike in them. They took the recommendation from Guide Along and hiked to McDonald falls.
Chapter 12: Sleeping amongst the poppies
While not as dangerous at the poppy field, sleeping at Lake McDonald Lodge was equally as enticing. Another historic lodge in the Swiss chalet style, it is warm and cozy with stunning scenery everywhere.
A Red Jammer that offer tours of the park
Chapter 13: There’s No Place Like Home
The last day in Oz, Scarecrow and Tin Man played golf at Whitefish Lake Golf Club while DarThia and Lioness enjoyed the quaintness of downtown Whitefish.
Although desperately trying not to click their hiking boots together, the friends found themselves back to reality after their wonderful time in Glacier National Park. Even though they could not stay in Oz, there is truly no place like home.
105 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s the typical high temperature in Hot Springs, Arkansas in the summer. I’ve been visiting Lake Hamilton in Hot Springs in July for as long as I can remember, as it is the host city to my annual family reunion. Hence, it is no surprise that my lifetime of memories here take place indoors with air conditioning. The weather has never seemed conducive to exploring the national park down the road. A hot bath, historic or not, is unappealing this time of year. Sweating profusely while walking down Grand Promenade…also unappealing. Even betting on horses at Oaklawn didn’t come close to playing Space Invaders in Big Daddy’s chilly condo with a glass of Aunt Pat’s iced tea.
This summer, however, the weather was spectacular. The high of only 85 degrees allowed for a full day of hiking, bathing, drinking, and touring. It was a jackpot day in Hot Springs National Park.
Hot Water:
Hot water is the modern-day luxury for which I am most grateful. In Hot Springs, Arkansas, however, the hot water isn’t all that modern. In fact, the 142-degree water coming from the ground is 400 years old!
Hot Water Cascade at Arlington Lawn, Hot Springs National Park
The Ouachita mountains surround Hot Springs National Park and were formed when two tectonic plates collided over 300 million years ago. The process left thousands of layers of cracked, broken rock. Rain falls into these cracks and descends 8,000 feet below the earth’s surface, where the rocks are extremely hot. Through conduction, the hot rocks slowly heat the rainwater. The water travels down for 4,000 years and ascends quickly back to the surface. And by quickly, I mean 400 years. Not very modern at all!
Because the water is heated by this geothermal process and not by volcanic magma like other hot water (i.e. Yellowstone), it is colorless and tasteless. Water from Hot Springs National Park is ideal not only for bathing, but also for drinking. After learning about this phenomenon, I understand why a national park exists here – to protect, celebrate, and enjoy this special water.
Visitors fill jugs at a thermal spring fountain
Hot Baths:
Hot Springs has had many nicknames over the centuries. One of my favorites, the “American Spa,” was given to the city in the early 1800’s. The spa culture started with log cabin bath houses built in the 1830’s, and eventually evolved into the eight, still standing, bathhouses built by the 1920’s.
The peak time for these bath houses was the late 1940’s. Over the next 40 years, there was a decline in tourism and all but one shut down. The Fordyce Bathhouse is now the national park Visitor Center and offers both self-guided and complimentary ranger-led tours to give you an idea of what the bathhouses were like in their prime. We did a version of the self-guided tour, but I will be sure to join a ranger-led tour on my next trip.
Bathhouse Row
If you are curious about the bathhouses, the Fordyce exhibit is a great place to start, but I highly recommend getting in the water. My cousin, Hillis, and I opted to bathe at the Quapaw Bathhouse – one of the two remaining functioning bathhouses. We spent about an hour and a half enjoying the public thermal pools at Quapaw, although they also offer private baths and traditional spa treatments. If you are looking for a more authentic bathhouse experience, the Buckstaff Bathouse offers various packages, several of which I have added to my To Do List for next visit.
Shower for pre and post bathing at Quapaw Bathhouse
Showers for pre and post bathing at Quapaw Bathhouse
Lockers to store belongings at Quapaw Bathhouse
Public Pools at Quapaw Bathhouse
Hot Trails:
Hot Springs National Park is not all about the water. Those Ouachita mountains that help make the hot springs also make for some great hikes. When I originally planned this trip, I assumed the temperature would be close to 100 degrees, so I wasn’t planning on hiking. Because the weather was so pleasant, Hillis and I changed our course and were able to get in a short hike. We opted for the Goat Rock Trail, which is one of the North Mountain trails. This trail is a moderate, 2.6-mile, out and back journey that took a little over an hour to complete. The hike is pleasant with plenty of shade and great views at the top. It is true that parking is difficult, but, like the weather, we lucked out and found the last spot in the small lot.
Top of Goat Rock Trail
View from top of Goat Rock Trail, Hot Springs National Park
Hot Beer (Cheese Dip):
As I mentioned, only two of the eight bathhouses on Bathhouse Row are still functioning. The Fordyce is the national park Visitor Center. The Hale is a hotel. The Lamar is the park gift store. The Ozark is the Hot Springs National Park Cultural Center. The Maurice is currently vacant. (Any takers?) And the Superior Bathhouse is a brewery. That’s right, A BREWERY – and the only in the world to use thermal spring water in their beer (not to mention the only one inside a national park). How can you not go?
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Surprise surprise, I was most excited for this part of the day. It never ceases to amaze me that our national parks really do have something for everyone. Knowing beer cheese dip was something everyone would enjoy, I recruited some family members to come join us for lunch. The adults shared the Beer Bath – a sampler of all 18 beers on tap with clever names and bold tastes like Big Dill (Pickle Sour), Spicy Ride (Jalapeno Ale), Foul Play (Oatmeal Stout), and DeSoto’s Folly (Golden Stout). It is a must do. The beer paired nicely with my chili-slaw dog. Yum!
Beer Bath at Superior Bathhouse Brewery
Beer Bath with 18 sample beers
Hillis and Mary at Superior Bathhouse Brewery
Hot Operations:
My very favorite part of this trip to Hot Springs National Park was our visit to The Gangster Museum. I briefly recalled that Hot Springs had a claim to mob fame, but our time in the museum gave a great overview to the whole illegal scene going on in Hot Springs over the decades. At first I thought our tour guide’s gangster outfit and jokes were a little silly, but by the end of the tour I was all in. When we arrived home, I checked out a copy of David Hill’s The Vapors, a book about the mob in Hot Springs. If you want to adequately prepare for your visit to Hot Springs, I suggest you read the book.
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The museum gift shop offers hats for sale and a nod to the Hatterie Hotel (and brothel) of the 1930’s.
As Al Capone once said, “You can get much further with a kind word and a beer than you can with a kind word alone.” That’s what it was… right? Whatever the quote, after this visit, I have many a kind word to say about Hot Springs National Park. The day, paired with a pickle beer, was well worth the trip. Even in the heat of a Hot Springs Summer.
Next up… Glacier National Park… Coming September 2024!
The Cullens must have been on vacation. The weather last week in Olympic National Park was so outstanding that had the vampires been in town, it would have felt like touring a jewelry store instead of a rainforest. Even though it would have been extraordinary to meet Edward or Bella, the warm air and sunny sky more than made up for missing them. Olympic National Park is the 15th park in my quest to visit all 63 National Parks in the U.S.
This park is the most diverse I have visited so far on my journey. In three days, we saw the snow-peaked Olympic Mountain range, pristine alpine lakes, two temperate rainforests, and the intimidating Washington coast. Each of these three landscapes has a beauty and magic of its own. As you are walking in the forest or along the coast, it isn’t difficult to believe in vampires, werewolves, and other fictional creatures. If you have more time… a week, a month, a summer… I recommend spending it all in this wonderful place.
For those of you who don’t enjoy day-long hikes– no worries! We had spectacular views with short, easy hikes. There is a lot of driving though, so choose your travel companions wisely. Luckily for me, my brother joined us for this trip. He has lived in Washington for several decades, and thus was the perfect tour guide.
Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park
We arrived at the Hurricane Ridge visitor center (which burned down in 2023) at about 10:00 am on a Wednesday. There are many hikes that start here that all sounded fabulous. But because we had a lot of ground to cover in a short time, we opted for the High Ridge Trail. This is a moderate, 1-mile round-trip trail with great views for the effort. You even get to pass the quaint ski patrol cabin and lift. Olympic National Park is one of only three national parks to offer downhill skiing, snowboarding, and snow tubing. (Yosemite and Cuyahoga National Parks being the other two.) There were a few remnant patches of snow on the trail to remind us of how fun -and cold- this park might be in the winter.
Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park
After Hurricane Ridge, we meandered over to Lake Crescent. This glacier-carved lake is simply stunning… and chilling. For those True Crime fans, if you aren’t aware of the story of the Lady of the Lake, you are missing a good one.
Before eating lunch at Lake Crescent lodge, we hiked the Marymere Falls trail. This hike is just under 2 miles, easy, and full of outstanding views.
Lunch at the Lake Crescent Lodge was delicious. On the drive from Seattle, we passed through the town of Sequim and the Dungeness Spit. The former is known as the “Lavender Capital of North America,” and the latter is associated with the crab. Not having had the time to visit either place, we honored them by ordering the Lavender Lemonade and the Dungeness Crab Louie Salad. We were fortunate to arrive at the lodge just before they stopped serving lunch. We were also fortunate to dine at a window table, from which the views were something out of a Normal Rockwell painting.
View from Lake Crescent Lodge
Lake Crescent Lodge
Sol Duc Valley,
Olympic National Park
After lunch, we hiked to another waterfall, Sol Duc Falls. This trail is another easy, 1.5-mile hike with stunning views and a waterfall. If you are like me, waterfalls alone are worth a hike.
On the drive to the trail head, we passed a great viewing spot over the Sol Duc river where, if you time it right, you can watch the salmon run.
Another activity we had to pass on this trip was a visit to the hot springs in Sol Duc. Since my visit to Hot Springs National Park is just around the corner, we opted to take a rain check on the Sol Duc hot springs.
Next on the agenda was to check into our lodging. We stayed in the town of Forks at the Pacific Inn Hotel. The rooms were clean, freshly painted, and well kept. The town itself is very cute and conveniently located for touring the park. For those interested, Forks also houses the infamous Twilight Museum.
Feeling a little Team Edward AND Team Jacob, we picked up a pizza at Pacific Pizza in Forks and then headed to the beaches of La Push, home to the Quileute tribe and the Black family.
Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park
The goal was to hike to Hole-in-the-Wall on Rialto Beach, back to the parking lot, and then enjoy our pizza while watching the sunset over the sea stacks. We did, in fact, achieve our goal, but I completely underestimated Rialto Beach and the difficulty I would have getting around.
The beach is rocky with enormous logs of drift wood scattered about, making it quite literally an obstacle course. At one point the path along the beach was interrupted by a stream of water too wide for a human to jump. Being neither werewolf nor vampire, we had two choices: get wet or walk on top of the lattice-work of logs. Adding to my anxiety was the approaching high tide. Not to have my plans thwarted, we made it across the stream, to Hole-in-the-Wall and back to safety in time to enjoy the sunset. Needless to say, I slept well this night!
One of the bazillion problems with having a bucket list item of visiting all 63 national parks by the time I turn 63 years old, is that I don’t get to spend enough time in any one place, an understatement for Olympic National Park. My focus is usually to hit the highlights and move on. Having this mindset, I tend to limit myself and underestimate how much I can see in one visit.
A benefit of having the right travel companions is that they can help you stay positive and spontaneous. I had taken Cape Flattery off our itinerary because I thought we would run out of time. Thankfully, my brother thought that was a terrible excuse and we started the second day of our trip at the most northwestern tip of the lower 48 United States– in Cape Flattery.
Happy to have made the drive to Cape Flattery
The view of the coast as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail
Cape Flattery is near Neah Bay, actually outside of Olympic National Park, in the Makah Reservation. A permit is required to park by the trailhead. We got ours for twenty dollars at the Makah Marina.
The Cape Flattery Tail is an easy, 1.5-mile trail that is picturesque from beginning to its astounding end, and absolutely worth the trip.
One of the several oversized chairs seen on the trip.
Wooden planked pathway of Cape Flattery Trail
Friend on the Cape Flattery Trail
Tatoosh Island, Cape Flattery, as seen from the viewing platform at the end of Cape Flattery Trail
The Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park
Want to feel like you are in a Disney movie? Then visit the Hoh Rain Forest and all its enchantment. The moss-covered rocks, the densely packed trees, the unending ferns, the gentle streams, and the blue Hoh river all work together to create a magical world, fit for all of us princesses. Twelve feet of rainfall per year helps create the lush growth of this temperate rainforest. The other temperate rainforest we visited is the Quinault Rain Forest, which is on the agenda for Day 3 in Olympic National Park.
Trees draped in moss on Hall of Mosses Trail
Large heart-shaped tree root on Spruce Nature Trail
Two easy hikes that are worth the effort are the Hall of Mosses Trail and the Spruce Nature Trail.
Serene Stream, Hall of Mosses Trail, Olympic National Park
Slithery friend on Spruce Nature Trail
Skaff by the the Hoh River
One of my favorite parts of the Spruce Nature Trail was spending some time by the Hoh River. I could have stayed here all afternoon. The boys had fun walking on logs, while I watched a Bald Eagle fly over head.
Sean pointing to the Bald Eagle flying over the Hoh River at the end of the Spruce Nature Trail
Ruby Beach, Olympic National Park
Before dinner, we made a stop at Ruby Beach. Another beautiful sight with rocky beaches, large logs, and sea stacks.
Sean scrambling atop large driftwood log over stream on Ruby Beach
The rocky beach and sea stack of Ruby Beach
Dinner at Longhouse Cafe in Forks
If I’m honest, I get as excited about food as I do about nature. The Longhouse Cafe in Forks is just down the road from the Pacific Inn, but tucked away in the parking lot of Dew Drop Hotel, making it a bit difficult to find. We ordered fresh halibut bites, birria fries, and barbecue sandwiches on fry bread. So good!
Halibut Bites
Longhouse Cafe in Forks
Birria Fries at Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington
Barbecue sandwich on fry bread at Longhouse Cafe in Forks, Washington
Wildlife Spotting
The last item on our list for Day 2 in Olympic National Park was to see some wildlife. We got lucky and after dinner saw two herds of Roosevelt Elk and one deer. It was an excellent way to end our day, and certainly made our hearts grow fawn’der!
Our first destination on Day 3 in Olympic National Park was the Quinault Rain Forest and Lake Quinault. We opted to hike the Falls Creek and Quinault Loop Trails. Together, this was an easy 2-mile hike with all the right components including that enchanting moss, tall trees, creeks, and waterfalls.
Quinault Look Trail
Quinault Rain Forest
Falls Creek Trail
Quinault Rain Forest
Falls Creek Falls
Remember my new appreciation for champion trees after visiting Congaree National Park? Well, Quinault Rain Forest in Olympic National Park is home to SIX champion trees. In fact, this rain forest is sometimes referred to as the “Valley of Giants,” and it does not disappoint. Here, the enormous trees are often draped in moss to create an idyllic place to spend a few hours.
I realize that my descriptions of the scenery from the rainforests don’t vary a lot… incredibly tall trees, enchanting moss-covered everything, babbling creeks, turquoise blue rivers, magical lakes, marvelous waterfalls. There’s only so many times one woman can search “spectacular” on Thesaurus.com, so please do not let my monotonous adjectives deter you from visiting. My language might get old, but the views never do.
Moss covered tree on Quinault Loop Trail
Sean admiring the tall trees on Quinault Loop Trail
Quinault Loop Trail
The Quinault Loop Trail was not only beautiful, but informative as well. The signage on the trail was very well done. In particular, the information pertaining to temperate rainforests was successful in its attempt to increase awareness about the threats to their wellbeing from deforestation and climate change.
Signage on Quinault Loop Trail
Did I mention this hike had outstanding water features? In addition to the streams and waterfall, we also enjoyed views of Lake Quinault.
Sean contemplating the meaning of life at Lake Quinault
Lake Quinault
Lake Quinault as seen from the Falls Creek Trail
Staircase
Our last stop for the day, and unfortunately for the trip as a whole, was the Staircase area of Olympic National Park. The Staircase Rapids Loop Trail had all the usual suspects (trees, moss, water), plus a very cool suspension bridge. This area is in the southeast corner of the park and a bit out of the way, but it is totally worth the detour.
Skaff and Sean by Staircase Rapids
Douglas Fir and Cedar trees with their different barks.
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Suspension Bridge over Staircase Rapids
Staircase Rapids Loop Trail
Moss covered boulders on Staircase Rapids Loop Trail
Staircase Rapids Loop Trail
I was so sad for this perfect trip to end. My only hope is to report another amazing day in Hot Springs National park in July… anticipating a truly sizzling experience!
National parks and roadside barbecue restaurants have one thing in common – they are both excellent places for self-discovery. Having just returned from a trip that included both, I have come to an important self-realization: I am an irregular.
My friend, Allene, and I were waiting in line at Maurice’s Piggie Parkbarbecue restaurant outside of Columbia, South Carolina, when we met a regular. He comes to this restaurant twice a week for lunch and orders the same thing every time – the pork dinner with fried okra and Carolina hash. Even though we appreciated his recommendation for our meal, Allene and I decided to share a dinner with chicken, pork, and brisket along with the Carolina hash and collard greens. The food was all excellent, but the collards in particular were simply outstanding. Allene wanted to let our friend know what he was missing by not trying something new… by not being a little more irregular.
Congaree National Park, up until very recently, is one of the least visited parks in the country. It doesn’t boast cliff faces, geysers, or rattlesnakes. However, this quiet, humble park is simply spectacular.
The first impressive feature of the park is that, like the New England Patriots, it houses a lot of champions. Did you know that a tree can be designated as a “Champion Tree?” There is a certain formula that is used to bestow this arborary award that includes trunk circumference, height, and other measures of size. Although the exact number changes as trees fall, Congaree has the highest concentration of these behemoths anywhere in North America. Unlike an NFL ticket, it is free to enter this winner’s circle and marvel at its greatness.
A Place of Stories
After visiting Congaree twice, I have a new appreciation for its habitat, the bottomland hardwood forest. This type of forest sits on low ground and floods intermittently. The result is a unique ecosystem that has supported human life for 10,000 years! The hikes are flat, but guide you to places where you find yourself alone, surrounded by old trees and eerie stillness. The quiet along Weston Lake Loop trail whispers the story of centuries of people who found themselves here and a forest that survived destructive industrialization.
I recommend the complete board-walk hike and at least one other trail to the forest floor. For the complete experience, take a canoe tour on Cedar Creek. I did this on my first trip to Congaree through Palmetto Outdoors and it was excellent.
A Prize to Win
To further convince you to visit, it’s time for the Hail Mary… the tiny, bioluminescent Photuris frontalis. Not only a great name for the back of a football jersey, this species of firefly is one of only three in North America that can completely synchronize its flashing. Imagine moving strands of Christmas lights stretched throughout a dim forest, all blinking at the same time.
I learned about these fireflies during my first trip to Congaree. There are only three places in the US that you can see synchronous fireflies. Congaree National Park is one of them. To see this show, you have to enter a lottery in April. The viewing happens for about 2 weeks in mid to late May. I entered the lottery in April 2023 and did not win a pass. I persevered, however, and won this year. Since the park is only a four hour drive from Atlanta, I made a special trip just to get a dose of twinkling dopamine.
Internet Photos of the Synchronous fireflies
A Nighttime Spectacle
On days with firefly viewing events, the park closes at 4:30 pm and reopens at 7:00 pm. We arrived minutes after 7:00 pm to find an impressive line of cars waiting. There are checkpoints before entering the park where rangers will scan your pass and check that your photo ID matches the name on your pass. The ranger will give you a red flashlight and some brief information.
After checking in, we parked our car and headed to the Harry Hampton visitor center which stays open until 10pm on these special evenings. We then walked some of the board-walk trail until about 8:15 pm when we headed back to the roped-off, designated viewing trail. The synchronous fireflies stay low to the forest floor so the best way to view their blinking is by sitting on the ground. The middle of the path was crowded, but we found space to sit towards the end of the trail. First twinkling started about 8:30 pm and by 9:00 pm the show was at its peak.
Firefly viewing is similar to eclipse viewing, whale watching or seeing the Northern Lights…the experience is not guaranteed and is dependent on weather and other factors. On our visit, the moon was bright which pulled the lightning bugs deeper into the forest and further from the viewing areas as the night progressed. By 9:30 pm, the blinking slowed and people started leaving.
*How watching the Synchronous Fireflies at Congaree National Park made me feel.
Like attending an NFL game, there was a lot of pre-game excitement. “I won the lottery! We have tickets!! Who’s going? What will I wear?” Prior to the real firefly experience, the vision in my mind was a cross between the blue Will-o’-the-Wisp path in Brave and the lanterns filling the night sky in Tangled. The actual experience was not as dramatic or life changing, but it really was incredible and unique. It was irregular.
In 1987, U2 wrote an album that deeply resonated with me (…and 25 million other people). In 2023, I visited their spiritual land with its desert plains and highest mountains– Joshua Tree National Park.
Joshua Tree is a place for wandering and wondering. I was fortunate to visit the park in the spring, the season of renewal and rebirth. Spring is here again, along with its religious holidays, and is a perfect time to reflect and introspect.
My husband, Sean, and I arrived in the park at about 6:00pm on a Thursday evening in late April. As we traveled along Park Boulevard, I was struck by the expansive and seemingly inhospitable landscape of spiked trees and large boulders. Anticipating large crowds this time of year, I was surprised that we were the only car on the road for the twenty miles to Keys View.
The isolating drive, along with the bizarre and incomprehensible landscape, resulted in a first impression of the park that is best described as befuddlement. But as we pulled into the parking lot at Keys View minutes before sunset, those unpleasantries were washed away. Nestled into the side of the Little San Bernadino Mountains, a small crowd was already gathered to watch the sunset over the Coachella Valley. Through the hushed whispers of anticipation, there was a silent communion amongst us. Together, we watched the spectacular colors of the sun bleed into one. And even though we took the same lonely road out of the park, there were only feelings of contentment and understanding.
Day two of our trip was busy. The first stop on our pilgrimage was Skull Rock. A great motivator to begin a spiritual quest is the idea of death and our own mortality. As you stare into the hollow eyes of the giant skull, perhaps you are reminded of the meaninglessness of the human experience or of victory over death. Or maybe all you get from the heady stare is poison and pirates. Whatever the rock means to you, get there early. It is a popular spot.
Heart Rock
After the heavy reminder of death, where better to run than the temple of love? Our second station, Heart Rock, is a fun and happy place to visit. Shooting up like a bloom from the stony ground, this large heart is the appropriate place to contemplate the One-ness of it all.
Arch Rock
Adjacent to Heart Rock, the third station we visited was Arch Rock. We honored the sanctity of Spring by walking through the symbol of rebirth and renewal, leaving behind the old and entering the new.
Cholla Cactus Garden
Station four was Cholla Cactus Garden. The Cholla Cactus Garden is an adorable, 10-acre, non-petting zoo of desert vegetation. Rivaling puppy yoga for sheer cuteness, the Teddy bear cholla cacti are the sweetest things! Neither puppy yoga nor Teddy bear chollas have religious or spiritual meaning, so the only way I can tie them into this analogy is that this garden brings me great joy. On your spiritual pilgrimage to Joshua Tree, take a break from all the seriousness and go play in the cactus garden.
Hall of Horrors
Our fifth stop of the day was The Hall of Horrors. This large area is confusing and the streets have no names. If you are fortunate enough to find the slot canyons, the tight squeeze will give you an interesting perspective about narrow paths.
Hidden Valley
Hidden Valley was station six. The name comes from the legend that it was a place where rustlers hid stolen livestock during the transportation between California and Arizona. Concealed by a ring of massive boulders, this flat, one-mile hike is the perfect, secretive place to contemplate the Parable of the Hidden Treasure or the Tibetan Buddhists’ beyuls.
Fortynine Palms Oasis
The seventh and last stop of the day was Fortynine Palms Oasis. This challenging hike was the pinnacle of my spiritual journey as it was the place I came closest to death. We started the hike at noon, thinking we were adequately prepared with hats, sun protection, water, and snacks. We were not. I started feeling a little uneasy about three quarters of the way to the oasis. Just when I was about to suggest turning around, I could see the oasis in the distance, so we persevered. Had I not been experiencing some mild heat exhaustion, I don’t think I would have appreciated the literal and spiritual meanings of the word as much as I did that day. It is an absolute must see, but PLEASE hike in the morning.
