The Wonderful World of Glacier National Park
September 2024
Chapter 1: My Oz Story
Big and beautiful. Crown of the continent. Emerald City of Oz.
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
The Wizard of Oz is a beloved story with many iterations, and I’d like to offer one more.
This Wizard of Oz chronicle begins with a middle-aged woman, DarThia, who lives in a hot, humid suburb of Atlanta, Georgia. DarThia leads an ordinary life, but longs for moments when she escapes to other parts of the country where nature is preserved, and the surroundings are inspiring to her heart and healing to her soul.
During the prequel to this story, DarThia met some interesting characters. Long ago, she met a scarecrow who thought he needed a brain but was the smartest person DarThia had ever met. So, she married him.
Sometime later, DarThia met a lioness who thought she was cowardly because she was afraid of heights, but was the bravest person DarThia had ever met. So, she made her a friend.
Lioness was married to Tin Man who had the biggest heart of anyone DarThia had ever met, so she made him a friend, too.
DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness, and Tin Man have had many adventures, but the one I’d like to tell you about today is their trip to Glacier National Park, or as they called it – Oz.
Chapter 2: We’re not in Atlanta Anymore!
Glacier National Park is located in northwest Montana, adjacent to Canada, and getting there can be difficult. There are several options, although arrival by cyclone is not the preferred method. Our quartet of travelers chose a Delta flight from Atlanta to Bozeman, Montana.
The Yellow Brick Road “Going to The Sun Road” is the main road in Glacier National Park, running East to West. The group of travelers started on the east side of the park and slowly worked westward. They did consider a direct flight to Kalispel, Montana, but the long drives from Bozeman and Missoula provided the necessary scenery and time for an epic playlist, both of which make this story a classic.
Chapter 3: lions and tigers AND BEARS! Oh my!!
Bear spray … necessity or scam? Close encounters with bears seem to be rare in Glacier National Park. However, Dorothy thought Winged Monkeys were rare in Oz and look what happened to her. Wanting protection against both angry bears and magical monkeys, DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness and Tin Man stopped at the Walmart in Bozeman to purchase bear spray and snacks.
Spoiler alert… the friends did not need to use the bear spray. They did eat quite a lot of snacks, though, and were very glad they stopped in Bozeman for both. Once they left Bozeman, the next opportunity for either was in St. Mary’s, four hours away.
Provisions in hand, the travelers were famished after the long day of travel. Their hunger led them to an adorable restaurant in Bozeman called “Roost Fried Chicken”, recommended by Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. Their meal here was one of their favorites.
CHAPTER 4: Browing, Montana
The journey from Bozeman to Browning consisted of hours of driving with no speed limit through seemingly endless plains scattered with cows. Rarely a human in sight, the skies were overcast while a compilation of Willie Nelson, Zach Bryan, and Tom Petty sang in the background as the travelers cruised through the open and rugged landscape.
The city of Browning is small. Our travelers were unsuccessful in finding a decent dinner that night. They all agreed it would have been better to avoid Taco John all together and stick to Cliff Bars. Although their bellies were not full, the travelers spent a safe night in Glacier Peaks Hotel and were up early the next morning to continue their journey.
Chapter 5: Totos
As the friends departed the next morning, the Totos of Browning came to wish them safe travels.
Chapter 6: Triple Waterfalls
The friends were delighted to finally arrive in Glacier National Park, and eager to journey along “Going to the Sun Road”. Their first stop was to admire Goose Island. Afterwards, they hiked to the triple falls – Barring, St. Mary’s, and Virginia Falls.
After several hours of hiking, the crew stopped in St. Mary’s for a well-deserved lunch at the Snowgoose Grill and filled the Tin Man’s heart with a rice crispy treat.
Glacier National Park is renowned for its huckleberry harvests. The travelers feasted on many huckleberry desserts.
After lunch, they took a stroll around Swiftcurrent Lake via the Swiftcurrent Lake Nature Trail, all the way to Lake Josephine. After their afternoon stroll, they checked into their lodgings at Many Glacier Hotel.
Many Glacier Hotel is often voted one of the most beautiful in the U.S. national parks and DarThia agreed. The hotel has an interesting history and is extremely charming with its Swiss-style chalet decor.
Chapter 7: Harry the Moose
After admiring the beautiful lodge, the crew decided to make their way to Fishercap Lake via a short, easy trail, known for spotting moose. After a little while, Harry the Moose sauntered from the shrubbery, walked into the lake, and feasted on his grassy dinner. Harry’s hunger was contagious, and the traveler’s soon left to find their own dinners at The Ptarmigan Dining Room in Many Glacier Hotel.
CHAPTER 8: Grinnell Lake
The next day, DarThia, Scarecrow, Lioness, and Tin Man awoke early as the sun rose over Swiftcurrent Lake and Grinnell Point.
Arm in arm, merrily singing, they set out on the Tan Dirt Road.
Stunning mountainpeaks, distant waterfalls, dangerous suspension bridges, and miles of leafy vegetation (with hidden bears) flanked their path. The destination – Grinnell Lake. The wind, cold, sleet, and distance prevented them from reaching Grinnell Glacier, so they packed their backpacks full of scrumptious pre-made sandwiches from the coffee shop and picnicked with the chipmunks by the turquoise blue water of Grinnell Lake instead. The way back home along the water was more scenic (and less scary) than the morning path.
The group rewarded their herculean efforts that evening with a steak dinner at Cattle Baron Super Club, a local restaurant outside the park with a great story. Tin Man is still waiting for his beer.
Chapter 9: David the Moose
Bellies full, the travelers were heading back to Fishercap Lake to see Harry again, when, to their delight, Tin Man’s eagle eye spotted a mother black bear and her two frolicking cubs.
Elated at seeing bears, the friends thought the night couldn’t get better. But this night did get better! While waiting for Harry (who never showed), David the Moose made a surprise appearance right along the trail where they were standing. One billion photos later, the group meandered back to Many Glacier hotel for a restful sleep.
Chapter 10: Finding the Hidden Lake
The next morning, the foursome were not all merry and bright. The plan for the day was to find the Hidden Lake, which required parking at the Logan Pass visitor center. The evening before, locals at the Cattle Baron recommend the group arrive “before daybreak” in order to secure a parking spot. Excellent advice, but it meant a very early morning without proper caffeine. It also meant that the stairs at the start of the hike were glazed with a thin, but daunting, sheet of fresh ice.
Right when regret started seeping into DarThia’s mind, the magical land of Oz and its wildlife began to wake up. A big furry grizzly bear was spotted in the distance. Not remotely close enough to be a threat, or for DarThia to see very well with the naked eye, DarThia and friends spent about 30 minutes watching this mammoth creature waddle along. Another tip… bring binoculars. We had a pair, and they made all the difference.
After watching A GRIZZLY BEAR enjoy its morning, we met an equally furry, although much smaller, friend, the Hoary marmot.
With a newfound joy for the day, the group made it to the summit with a spectacular view of the Hidden Lake. The photos do not do this justice. It was stunning!
After the favorite hike of the trip, it was back to the car and more driving along “Going to the Sun Road.” They stopped to take pictures at Bird Woman Falls and the West Tunnel.
The friends had lunch at Lake McDonald Lodge and hiked to Avalanche Creek afterwards.
That night, they slept at Apgar Village Lodge. DarThia enjoyed all the places they slept, but the view outside the rooms at Apgar made this her favorite hotel of the trip.
Chapter 11: Scenic Float Trip
Water is everywhere in Glacier National Park and the friends were excited to be able to get on it. They opted for a Scenic Float trip on the Flathead River.
After being on the water all morning, it was time for another meal. Great Bear Cafe in Hungry Horse was recommend by Dirt in My Shoes and was excellent.
After lunch, the friends felt they had one more hike in them. They took the recommendation from Guide Along and hiked to McDonald falls.
Chapter 12: Sleeping amongst the poppies
While not as dangerous at the poppy field, sleeping at Lake McDonald Lodge was equally as enticing. Another historic lodge in the Swiss chalet style, it is warm and cozy with stunning scenery everywhere.
Chapter 13: There’s No Place Like Home
The last day in Oz, Scarecrow and Tin Man played golf at Whitefish Lake Golf Club while DarThia and Lioness enjoyed the quaintness of downtown Whitefish.
Although desperately trying not to click their hiking boots together, the friends found themselves back to reality after their wonderful time in Glacier National Park. Even though they could not stay in Oz, there is truly no place like home.
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